Any one here try one of these? (Alarm)

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Came across this and seems simple enough. Any thoughts?

 

10 years and..."There are no customer reviews yet."...

 

That's the part that concerns me. I sounds interesting but a little validation is always nice

 

and could something like that be wired after a relay just before the ignition coil? is that kind the idea? cut off the power of the car until the circuit is complete?

 

That's like 25 dollars worth of junk for 85 dollars. I have a switch under my dash I paid 5 dollars for that does the exact same thing that does. I could add a beeper and some LEDs to it as well, but why notify the thieves that there is a cut-out unit installed?

 

How did you run that

 

There are several ways to do it. You can cut it into the B+ to ignition switch, that will prevent the car from even cranking. You can cut it into the wire from the ignition switch to the dist, which will let the car crank until the battery dies. Those are the 2 best ways. If you are even more paranoid you can put cut outs under the hood, like a cut-off from battery to ground (good for storage also). Just do a google search on it and someone will provide detailed instructions. Just remember if you cut into a circuit that's over 30amps you probably want to use a relay and a switch. Or if you are dealing with a wire direct from the battery. If you are just cutting into the wiring around the steering column any 30amp rated switch will do the job, you won't need a relay for that.

 

Got my hands on a little switch by flaming river. I wanted to use it as a kill switch for the ignition. I have pertronix II installed with a relay kit. What I'm thinking about doing is taking the constant 12V source for the relay that is connected to the + battery terminal and using that to the switch. Can I break the wire, run one from the battery to the switch, and the other from the switch to the relay? Does this make sense to do?

 

Best alarm system!

 

No pets allowed in the lease

 

Only if you want to burn out your switch. The battery will dump a ton of amps through that switch. Put the switch on the activation portion of the relay. That runs less amps.

You want the switch to break the key on power not the constant power. unless you want to be driving down the road and have that switch burn out and leave you stranded.

 

activation portion of the relay meaning what exactly?

 

What I'm trying to say is the the relay is connected directly to the battery. With this wire from the relay to the battery is what I'm thinking of breaking. Is what the activation portion?

 

Most automotive relays have 4 posts. The activation portion is the signal wire that activates the magnetic coil that pulls in the switch. Typically it is opposite the ground for the relay. usually it is marked 85, 86 being ground, 87 being output and 30 being input.

 

Look at this...



The top left battery would be your car battery, notice how all the "power" goes strait from that batt to the light bulb? If you were to put your switch in the way of that power, it would get burned up.

Now look at the bottom batt. This would be the power that would come from say your aux fuze or something. It takes very little power to make that electro magnet activate to turn on the light bulb. Also notice that no light bulb power flows thru the magnet.

Notice the switch opening and closing? That is where you would put your kills switch.


EDIT.. Here is the type of relay MSmithPDX was referring to

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