Looks like my roller 306 is going to ready in the next couple weeks so I'm going ahead and yanking the 302, was wondering if anyone propped the hood open farther(can get close to another foot) and used a cherry picker?(I have one) I'll just be pulling engine, the C4 is fresh with maybe 50 mi, so it's staying in place... Removing the hood isn't a issue but I thought if it isn't necessary, why bother...
For the time if takes of removing 4 bolts to remove the hood. I would just do it just to be remove the added worry of hitting the hood or it just being in the way.
The guy that rebuilt my 302 when it was still in the green 74 pulled and installed the engine and trans with the hood on.. I asked him why and he said he hates lining hoods back up...lol... He didn't pull the headers either, left them hooked to a full exhaust and pulled right out between them...
I like a lot of room...remove the hood. How much harder is it to install the engine with tranny attached?
I'd pull the hood and remove and reinstall the engine and transmission together. Anything else seems too difficult. Next time I remove a hood, I'll drill 1/8" holes first to aid realignment.
I've pulled my 302 out a few times with the hood/prop still on, just depends on your picker's boom/hook/chain and/or if you are using carb engine/plate. So long as you can keep boom/hook as close to the engine as possible, there is plenty of room to pull/install. Just throw protective blanket/pad over the rad support (must remove rad for clearance of course!).......... obviously, if you are not sure about your picker boom/chain clearance, then play it safe and remove the hood....... regarding propping the hood open more, yes you can open so it is verticle, but then someone would have to hold it in this position while you and someone else pull out the motor. quick tip for hood installation/alignment, drill small 1/8' through the hinge and just into the hood (beween the bolts) so when reinstalling, awl can be placed into hole and hood will go back on just as it was before........providing the hood was aligned perfectly before hand....
Thanks dyent, by eyeballing it I was fairly sure the engine will pop out without a major issue... Engine compartment is naked as I was detailing, only thing left at this point is master cylinder... I've pulled/installed lots of engines from various vehicles, and yes usually with the trans bolted on... On those hood was always off(my T-Bird is in this condition as I type) but since the Comet's hood will raise to almost vertical(OK maybe 80*) I figured since the trans is staying in place, having to deal with another loose hood is a hassle I don't really need(plus the damn thing is heavy, by weight will almost make two T-Bird hoods)... BTW it already has a couple small holes in the hinges, apparently Brian used that trick when the car was painted... Saw your edit, plan is to tie the hood to a rafter with a couple nylon straps....
you could open the hood all the way up and drill a hole in the hinge and install a pin/bolt through the hinge to hold it open...
Well it can be done with hood in place while lifting engine straight up(yeah the hood is open almost as far as possible) Boom isn't nearly as close as it appears, had at least four inches...
Great job! Hope you did not scratch your newly painted hood! Post some pics when you finished detailing the engine compartment! David
If you really want to leave the transmission in the car, then take four long head bolts, cut the heads off, slot the end of the (now new) studs so that you can uncrew them with a larger flat head screw driver and use those four studs as bellhousing alignment studs (2 per side) With these on the back of the engine in the bellhousing holes, aligning the engine to the bell housing is a piece of cake, no need for another set of hands to get it done. Get those four studs in the corrosponding bell holes and shove the engine onto the bell housing. Start the two other bolts, then remove the studs. Oh, and I'd remove the hood and not need to worry about it falling or getting in the way when you're working in the back of the engine bay.