So I've included a pic to help explain what I'm getting at here. Previous owner put in tubular lower control arms and made little brackets where the washer would normally go. Thats the drawing in the picture. He drilled 3 seperate holes for different mounting locations. Where it is now is the hole with the red line in it so the camber has the top of the tires pointing in towards the car. I tried to unbolt them with the car jacked up and move the lower control arm in. My question is do I need to unbolt the torsion bars from the lower control arm to move it in. I had it jacked up and the lower control arm bolts out but could not get the cross member to move in. Any tips or advice here? Thanks
Those lock the adjustment, where the round ones can slip under extreme driving. The round part, is actually part of the thru bolt.
My main questions is what do I need to do to effectively move the lower control arm. i couldn't get it to move further in to the next mounting location to level out the tires so to speak. Do I need to remove the torsion bars from the lower control arm to do any adjustments? Or is there something else I'm missing. Thanks
The second holes you are seeing are not for the control arms. You need to turn the bolts where they are...The eccentric (Round offset washer looking thing) is what will adjust the arm to the proper setting...Then you tighten down the nut/bolt and your done... The little square you have drawn looks like a camber eliminator...Take it off the car and just use the original bolts/eccentrics. With the eliminator kit...You dont move the bolt to different holes...You change which hole on the eliminator you run the bolt through to get the proper setting.
The control arm inner bushing is knurled and may be difficult to move. You do not have to remove the strut rod to move it. The arms are easier to move outward than inward but I have better luck at ride height on an alignment machine. With the suspension unloaded it is more likely to be in a bind.
I think i see what you are saying but I'm not sure we are exactly on the same page. On my car there are two of those squares in place where the eccentric washer would go. The only thing I can do to change the adjustment is to remove the bolt that goes through both plates and the lower control arm and move the control arm in or out and bolt it in to a different set of holes. The only thing I'm having trouble doing is getting the lower control arm to move in at all to get the camber right. Only thing I can think of is to use a strap and pull the bottom of the tire in until it gets where it needs to be. Is that a bad idea?
I think what is confusing everyone here is that the picture is not my car. Thats a regular setup. In the first post I am talking about a plate ( the drawing ) that replaces the little washer.
That square add-on with the three holes is meant to keep the adjustment from moving at all .... that is why you can't move it. You have to dis-assemble the bolt passing through it to put it in a different hole. Once it is apart, I believe the square plate can be clocked differently to give you the next setting. I would look for markings on it, either for who made it (look some tech info up online) or for actual markings for which holes give you X degrees of camber.
I did remove the bolt. The square piece is cut and marked . Looks like the square is meant to stay orientated the way it is. The holes are marked as well. My issue was that when I removed the bolt I couldn't move the control arm in. It was very stubborn lol.
The square piece is designed to put the hole in different locations so you can adjust camber but you do have to remove the bolt instead of just turning it as previously mentioned. It will not move like the round one can under extreme suspension side loading, that's the benefit. You might try to get a set of the OEM type to get the adjustment and then swap to the plates once set. The arm is likely difficult to move due to the knurling on the inner sleeve of the control arm bushing and the fact that with it unloaded, it tilts to the side making this problem worse. There is nothing wrong with using a strap, as long as you're safely supported and you don't bend anything. Using a tapered punch or a pry bar to get the hole in the frame lined up with the bushing sleeve will help once you get it close.
