Thanks Thanks for all of your replies, I have learned alot of things that can cause ticking, more than I was aware of, however I adjusted the lifters one more time, this time I waited until the exhaust or intake valve started to open noticably, then I unlocked the closed valve and let the lifter sit for a couple minutes since it had just been crushed with opening. Then I turned the nut down finger tight until I could barely turn the pushrod with my fingers then I cranked down a full half turn and locked them. Hooray! she fired up and sounded really good, no ticking.........until she warmed up and I ran a couple 5500 rpm pulls then here came the ticking although not as loud as before, so this tells me it is in the lifter, cam, rocker but whats causing it to start ticking when hot, since metal expands with heat I would think adjusting them cold then when hot they would tighten even more. AND I also learned that I need to run a ZINC additive as the oils no longer have zinc, I dont get it, whats up with this zinc that they no longer add that modern cars don't seem to need but this ole school 302 needs?
If you have whatever camshaft and possibly roller rockers you need to know what you have and valve lash adjustment and know how to adjust, the way I explained is the easiest way for a beginner as far as zinc additive yes thats best for the old stuff Let see a picture of your rockers
Read a little more of your post. What type/ weight oil? How much oil pressure at idle and crusing? Fords and chevrolets not the same on stock valve trane
Link Here is link to cam card, this is what is in her; http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/camshafts/locator.php?part_number=7122&submit=go I'm working on uploading pics of rockers
If a zinc additive or high zinc break-in oil wasn't used during the initial break-in of the engine you could very well have a lobe slowly destroying itself. Do you have any signs of metal particles in the oil?
Ok you have roller rocks I don't know ratio should be 6.1 cam card does not giv e valve lash adjustment hot / cold need to know that I'm thinking 30 on intake 32 on exhaust ? get that adjust valves should be straight if not bring to va I can get you straight
Zinc Well I have no idea if they used a zinc break in oil but since it has run 12k miles I would think they did, I dunno. Now I did an oil change and the magnetic drain plug had no particles attached but the oil drain pan once I poured the waste oil off I could shine a flashlight onto the remaining residue and pick up a slight metallic shine, not much and really had to look to even notice it, I would think no more than you would see on any oil change. If after posting the cam specs and rocker pics somebody doesn't have an "AH HA" moment with an answer I'm going to pull the intake and look at the underside of the lifters for cupping.
more info 6.1 is right, if your referring to thousandths with a feeler gauge these are hydraulic flat tappet not roller solid lifter cam. everything I have seen from on youtube to talking to tech at edelbrock all say and show about the same, when one valve is opening, tighten other finger tight then preload anywhere from 1/8th for race motors to 1 full turn, I used a half turn preload, this is making my head hurt
ok I'm open to trying it, what is position of opposite valve while I'm adjusting the closed valve? and if with preload I'm still ticking won't a 30-32 gap really make them rattle?
