ok on right page now don't know much about roller rocks with hydraulic lifters but i will find out tomorrow if you like.
sure Please feel free, maybe you'll get me the answer I need and in the process you'll know more about the hydraulics with rollers
You are adjusting your valves at the wrong time. Try this procedure. 1) Using a long handled ratchet or breaker bar attached to the crank bolt, turn the engine over in the clockwise direction. A. Starting with #1 cylinder, turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up. B. At this point, stop and adjust the intake valve on the same cylinder. 2) Tighten the rocker until you can roll the pushrod between your thumb and forefinger with the slightest bit of resistance. 3) At this point tighten between an additional quarter to half of a turn. C. You have now adjusted the #1 intake valve. You will now want to turn the engine over while watching the same intake pushrod that you just set, it will go full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. By following this procedure, you are assured that both of the lifters are at the base circle of the cam and that there is no additional pre-load applied to them from cam lift at this point. D. You are now able to repeat this procedure on the remaining cylinders. We call this "Exhaust opening adjust intake, intake about closed adjust exhaust". It is the correct way to adjust valves. Your cam is a fairly mild hydraulic cam so it is a lot more forgiving than a solid flat tappet or solid roller cam is to adjust. As for Wrighttime, I believe he is thinking about a solid lifter cam and you have a hydraulic. The 30 or 32 he is referring to is .030 or .032 clearance between the valve tip and the rocker arm when adjusted, it's a solid lifter thing and you don't really need to worry about that. I just wanted you to know what he was trying to tell you. You need to just go with the 1/4 to 1/2 turn method, your lifters will take care of the rest. Your rocker arm ratio stock is 1.6:1, that is what a SBF is and looks like what you have for rockers. It doesn't matter what the rocker ratio is when you set lash, it's the same no matter what your ratio is. Same procedure. It doesn't matter what rockers are on the engine. The valves adjust the same for stock rockers (if stock is adjustable on your engine, most are not) or roller rockers. The procedure is the same. The engine doesn't know what kind of rockers are on it, they just know they are adjusted correctly. Some stock rockers (most SBF) are not adjustable, you just tighten them until they stop, that is what they are talking abut when they are telling you to just crank it down. You have adjustable rockers so you need to learn to adjust them correctly, "just crank them down" is not an option for your setup, period. Hope this helps, SPark
Thanks Yes I understood that he was referring to solids, hence my question and I do know about "crank em down" on stock rockers NOW what you have described I understand only ONE question, you say start with #1 and go from there! go to where, do I need to follow firing order or just move down the head on the passenger side head which is where #1 starts then move over to the other head and just go down the row? I felt like something along this line was missing even though cam is not super radical it is still starting to move those rods at earlier times than a stock, so what is it...firing order or just down head? And a big thank ya, I feel like I might have it almost licked:Handshake
Omg OH JEZZZ, please take a look at this link: http://www.centuryperformance.com/forum/showthread.php/41-Adjusting-Valve-Lash
After you finish #1, go on the #2 and repeat until you are done with that side. If you hook up a remote starter button you can bump it over from under the hood and do them a lot quicker. You cannot use the "quick and accurate" way listed with the cylinders listed. Ford has a different firing order, different cylinder numbering system. I have it converted for some other firing orders and cylinder numbering orders. I might still have the Ford order for putting it at TDC #1 and adjusting half the valves and then rotate and do the other half like explained on your web site. It works for mild and stock cams but if you have very much overlap you need to do it one cylinder at a time. The link you listed is pretty complete and still basic enough to follow. It sounds like a lot but after you mess with it for a while it becomes old hat. That is why I recommend the method I did. It works for anything. SPark
ok ok, I got it, will let ya know how things turn out, all goes well yeepee, if things do not go well I have a 73 Mav with said motor for sale.......cheap, cause I have had it......well I might try one more time
thanks Oh hey man you were trying to help, I may not have made it clear that my motor is not a solid roller, from what I gather it's not commonplace to have a SBF with hydraulics and roller rocks....anyways the wind is blowing like mad out so I'm going to wait until Sat. then set everything up, install a 3000 stall and 4.10's and see if this thing can lay a fat patch
