Best heads for a 302

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Bigj47933, Sep 25, 2012.

  1. Bigj47933

    Bigj47933 Member

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    What heads are the best for a mild 302. Looking for a cheap upgrade from the 74 heads that I have now. Thanks
     
  2. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    How much you want to spend?
     
  3. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    For $200-300, iron GT40 or GT40Ps (if you have money for custom headers for the Ps). E7s are pretty good.

    Then you step up into the aluminum heads and big bucks.

    What are you planning on doing with the car after you install said heads?
     
  4. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Mild...e7 is plenty.
     
  5. olerodder

    olerodder Member

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  6. Bigj47933

    Bigj47933 Member

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    Those are exactly what i was looking for a better flow than the stock ones and they are aluminum to boot. Thanks for the link. Has anyone had any luck with these.
     
  7. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Sorry. In my book, "mild 302" does not need aluminum heads. I consider my build to be "semi-built" I have have used GT-40P and GT40 iron heads, and have a pretty stout setup with them. Most guys that ride in my car don't call it "mild".

    That is why I asked

    E7s will give you plenty of street power on a "mild" build. Probably more than you need.

    If you want more than mild, say that up front, and we can recommend AFR 185 or other big dollar heads. Big Dollar goes up to $1500 per set. NOT "mild".

    Sorry, ranting. I am known for doing that. :ignore:
     
  8. Bigj47933

    Bigj47933 Member

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    lol thats fine. I plan on driving the car on weekends and occasionally on the track. Then I hope to do a hot rod power tour eventually.
     
  9. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Aluminum heads will be way expensive, and unless you swap out the intake, cam, pistons, etc. they will be will be WAY too much head for you.

    Stick with iron heads unless you are doing a big-time build.
     
  10. jb70grabber

    jb70grabber Member

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    i agree with scooper my new motor has gt 40 x heads (aluminum) with a x cam and 10-1 compression and it still lacks in the torque department in a higher gear on the street due to the intake runner size and valve size, and if your not getting a high end intake or gasket matching and porting yours you arent even using them to there full advantage anyways my old motor had e7s with a mild cam (ecam), 9-1 compression etc etc and was fun enough for what it was. also keep in mind other things like your gear ratio small intake runners = low end torque which is good for a car with highway gears and larger intake runners are good for higher rpm power but you will sacrifice low end torque with them which will be noticed if you dont have around a 3.40 or better gear ratio hope this helped some
     
  11. maverick75

    maverick75 Gotta Love Mavs!

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    Did you really just recommend 210cc heads for a mild build? :D

    Not to mention they have the worst reputation of any aftermarket head

    http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8-engine-tech/1227822-sbf-procomp-heads.html

    http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0...anyone-have-any-experiance-procomp-heads.html
     
  12. olerodder

    olerodder Member

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    No defense here, I just looked at the cheapest heads around, but after reading some "recent" reviews maybe they aren't worth having, plus made in China!
    So, next time I will go with my "Gut" before jumping at the word Cheap.
    Now with that said I would look for a set of used aluminum heads before I'd try and make Ford heads into performance heads......................IMHO
     
  13. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    Let me guess, you're running a Vic Jr ? If it is, there's your problem.
     
  14. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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  15. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    ditto that. Those heads can be a decent enough baseline from which to build if you're really pinching pennies and want to build a "ringer" that most that are "in the know" would think will fall flat up top when compared to their "real engine" having higher dollar parts.

    But.. never.. ever.. buy the fully assmebled heads though.. since they cut major corners there. And those are the parts that really give you bigger headaches in the long run. Check ALL tolerances.. fix their flaws by doing the necessary machine work(which is quite common for that company).. and spec decent parts to get the best bang for the buck. Smoothing out some of the larger casting blemishes and horrible bowl transitions won't hurt anything either. lol

    Course.. after all that.. you could have just payed the extra $300-400 and got something good to go right out of the box without all the headaches. :)
     

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