Is there a checklist I need to go by before I try to start the engine? I've primed each cylinder with a squirt or two of oil and let it sit for a while. It turns over just fine. The fuel line going to the pump from the hard line isn't hooked up to the hard line because the tank is bad. I was going to set up a tank outside the car with a fuel shutoff on the line. Just wanna see if this thing will run.
I would pull the coil wire off and let it build up oil pressure by turning it over without it being able to start
What oil is recommended? Right now it's sitting at the add line. This engine didn't have much coolant left (from a heater core leak) but the little bit that was in it looked good. Also, how long would it take to build up oil pressure?
Pull one of the valve covers and view the oil being pumped into the Lifter Areas .. when you see everything oiled.. then cover the head , hook up the coil wire and see what you got ! Chip
How long is a while? Was it stored indoors or outside? Would make a difference on how I answer. I've started engines that have sat better than 25 years successfully. Is the oil in there fresh or old? If anything but fresh I would get that out of there for some new 5w-30. Is the engine a recent build or one with lots of miles? Recent build I would definitely pull the distributor and run the pump on a drill to prime the system good. If the engine has sat more than a couple years I would pull all the plugs and get some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders to help free up the rings. With the plugs out you should be able to turn the engine over by hand with a ratchet on the crank bolt. If it has the points yet, give them a little cleaning too.
It's been outside all this time. Has been sitting for at least 5 years. Im able to turn it over with the key. When I pulled the valve cover it all looked pretty dry, with what looks like baked-on oil on everything. Not gunk, just a thin layer. As far as I know, the engine is original. It looks like someone had put on a new distributor somewhat recently. I need to be able to bypass the heater core because I'm sure it's leaky because there's the telltale green stain on the passenger side carpet. The oil light comes on when I turn the engine over too.
5 years outside - OK, that helps me. Definitely pull plugs and work some MMO around on those rings. Definitely drain the oil and get fresh in there. Since you have been cranking with the key already, the oil system has probably been reprimed but it would be a good idea to drill prime the system with new oil. That would at least give all the right places a good soaking of lube before any more cranking is done. Still have points? You can give the contacts a once over to clean them of corrosion. 9 out of 10 times a failure to start on an old engine is spark related. Heater core is easy to bypass. Just connect the 2 hoses together.
Well I was able to prime the oil pump. I had also pre-lubed everything under the valve cover, let the oil drain down through the engine. I put just a tiny bit of gas in the throat of the carb. It burned the gas when I cranked it. Now I need to come up with a way to get fuel to the fuel pump from this gas jug I have. I have the line in the gas jug sitting higher than the carb. I'm having to draw from experience I have working on small engines.
In the past, I used a snowblowers 1 gallon tank and a snowmobiles tank to connect to the fuel pump. Didn't have to do anything but connect the hose up. Of course the car could not be moved as it was tethered to the donor tank, but for running before the cars actual tank was hooked up, it worked great. Glad you are making progress - keep us posted!
I noticed today that the "choke heat tube" is broken from the manifold right at the hole. This engine is the i6 200. Could I get an electric choke for this carb? I think it's the "yf".
Is all the rest of the choke heater in working condition? You can buy a new heat tube kit. Maybe by now they make one that fits a Maverick, but when I did mine years ago I used a Mustang kit and just spliced in the bottom part of the tube that was rotted away. That way I had an original looking tube that had all the right bends. And yes, they do make electric choke conversion kits. They are pretty easy to install. But me personally I like the mechanical chokes and think it is worth fixing if it just needs the tube.
I'm not sure if the rest works correctly. It looks intact compared to pictures online. Does the choke plate normally rotate freely when turned or is there supposed to be resistance from the internal mechanism? It's just slack and open.
If it is cold, the choke will close under spring tension. When closed it will open easily when pushed with your finger but will close again by itself when released. If there is not enough spring tension, that is adjustable by rotating the black cap with the spring.