This one is for some of you suspension guru's. A friend has a factory M II suspension and part of the subframe he cut off a car he scrapped out and he REALLY wants to sell it to me. I know the frame is a bit narrower then the Mav but that doesn't concern me that much as I am a decent fabricator and a good welder. The factory setup has the rack front mounted and strut rods to the rear which leaves little room for headers, exhaust ect. What if you were to turn the setup 180 degrees, mount the rack on the rear of the crossmember and have the strut rods going to the front? This would put the strut rods under tension instead of compression which doesn't seem to be that big a deal. I would think the change in caster could be rectified by welding everything in the proper position. I'm not sure what it might do to the bumpsteer. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Just buy the correct aftermarket cross member and bolt all the stock stuff on it. You will be way ahead and have a front end that is safe with the proper geometry. I wouldn't trust mounting the stock stuff backwards.
Thanks for the replies guys. If you buy a new crossmember (around $300 plus shipping) you will also have to buy the lower A-arms because they will be made for use with out strut rods, which is another $200 or so a pair. Using the stock crossmember and new lower arms will also require an install kit to extend the mounting tubes for the lower arms. Then there is the problem that has come up here and there with the longer a-arm mounting bolts bending and breaking so then what. The factory crossmember is pretty stout to begin with and could be beefed up quite easily if needed and I have seen a number of tech articles about using the stock crossmember as the basis for a suspension upgrade where you get new strut mounting plates, heat and bend the strut rod so it mounts to the outside of the frame for more room between the frame rails. Heating and bending doesn't sound like the greatest idea either. I was just really curious about if everything seemed to make sense as far as would it work or not. I'm generally a cheapster and see no need to spend good money on parts that are not needed if this will work. Not dissing your opinions by any means. Just thinking why not, why wouldn't it work.
if you put the rack behind the cross member the stearing will work backwards. when you turn the wheel to the left the car will go right and visa versa. to make the m2 work you use the rack and spindles, get or make an aftermarket crossmember that uses an A arm on the bottom, use a coil over shock and a tubular A arm for the top. the hardest part is geting all the geometry right. you should be able to by a kit and have them leave the rack and pinion out and the spindles and brakes out. the m2 brakes are 4 lug so you will want to get 5 lug rotors for it.
Thanks Bryant. I somehow knew it sounded too good to be true!!!!!!! If you had a rack designed for rear steer though I think it would still work
I know I should probably just let this die but the wheels are still turning. Maybe just swap the factory lower arms side to side so the strut rod mounting area is to the front. And then what to do about that pesky swaybar? O K I'll let it rest for now.................................... Oh crap! The inertia of the wheels is too much for those 4 lug 8" rotors to slow down. Still thinkin.
