I now own a 72 maverick

I got it today. She is a beauty! Adjusted the clutch and the front brakes some and drove it 30 miles today. Tommorrow its check all fluids and change oil. Also gotta check the points it has a slight miss when cruising and a little hesitation when starting off. I figure it has a little to do with the fuel. But i have a feelin the points are the main cause.. Could the points cause those symptoms? It seems to run strong if you accelerate hard while cruisin, or make a corner and accel in second it might miss a little then pick up and pull hard, or just a little skip or miss goin dowin the road or when ya first get rollin? Any ideas??? Okay enough repair talk, whatcha think of the car itself? I cant wait to see this thing run when i get the motor tuned up, cause it has pretty good pep now..

Later chris!!

 

There are a several possible causes for the hesitation you are experiencing. I would check the vacuum advance diaphragm on the distributor, as this may be the most overlooked cause of a part throttle hesitation. Other causes can be a worn out accellerator pump in the carb, worn out points (as you mentioned), worn out ignition wires, a vacuum "leak", a sticky or misadjusted choke, etc. A complete tune-up probably wouldn't hurt...

 

Nice Car!! Looks pretty good from the pic's!!
As for the points if you get the point of replacing them, replace them with a Pertronix Ignitor, much more reliable, do a search on this site for more info.
Maybe run some fuel system cleaner through it, if it's been sitting, or drain the gas and fill it with some new stuff, and don't forget to replace the fuel filter.

 

That is a beauty! Not often you run across a 4-door in such nice shape. Good find.

 

I like it! Looks like it has deluxe interior to, is it a v-8 stick? Wish I could find a small bumper 4dr in that shape mine is taking alot of PA rust repair. needs some chrome wheels now to really set it off.

 

That's a great looking shade of green. 4P Medium Green Metallic

 

congrats dude!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Dude, if you gave $600 for that car like you were talking about on the other thread, I award you deal of the year. That looks like one very clean all original car. If that car is as nice as the pictures make it look, you flat out stole it.

I would get rid of the points, as I mentioned on the other thread. No point in screwing with them when you could either go with the Duraspark II ignition or Pertronix.

 

This is the one for 600 bucks in my other thread. The interior is just about mint. It has a really cool rubbermaid floor mat that goes one side to the other with the maverick emblem on it where it goes over the hump. Wonder if this is factory? or a rare aftermarket item? What about the hitch? I bet its rare now?? The out side just has a few spots no rust that i can find. It is really in better cosmetic shape than i first thought. I will try for some better pics tommorrow in the daylight. I would love to have that module, but i think for now i will just put new points rotor cap wires and plugs in it, then when money allows add the module and then i will already have new wires and plugs and such. Plus i am going to change the oil and check the other fluids, hopefully tommorrow. And then i need to check the brakes. I have one more brake questions, Do drum brakes naturally pull? Could you have all new pads and pistons abd it still pull some? Just trying to get an idea of how these should behave.. Oh and any tips on changing the plugs? How long does it usually take the first time?

Later chris!!

 

Pull is normal, if you pump the brakes it should even out. If not then you would have to adjust them.

 

It should not pull if the brakes are adjusted correctly. You can do two things. One you can adjust the side that it pulls to a little looser or Two you can tighten up the other side a little to get the car to brake straight. If after adjusting the brakes and the pull still does not go away check for worn front end parts. That is a major cause of a braking pull in thease cars. If you still cannot find the problem try bleeding the brakes, a little air in the system will cause the same thing. Just make shure you get the pull out of the car. You will understand the first time you try to brake hard in the rain or slick conditions with a brake pull.

Very nice car by the way. Good deal at $600.
Good luck with it.

 

Properly working drum brakes should not pull, I don't care what anyone says. Mine don't pull at all unless I absolutely slam on them.

You should never have to adjust any of them either. These cars have self adjusting drum brakes. Drive backwords at about 10 mph and hit the brakes hard. That activates the automatic adjusters. If after several times of driving backwords and smacking the brakes, it still pulls.. then your brakes need work.

 

Nice car!

To address miss/hesitation in a 'new to you' old car, do a compete tune up first.
Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, oil/filter change, air filter, PCV, and a thorough check for vacuum leaks.
If you can, rather than replacing points, swap in a Pertronix I. *I say "I" because the Pertronix II is expensive and unproven. Probably unnessecary in your application too.

Now, if it still hesitates on take off, you most surely have an accelerator pump issue in the carb. If you still have issue cruising, you likely have a main circuit problem.
So, the carb may well need rebuilding/replacing.

Great car man!
If it were mine, I would set a nice stance, tint the glass a little, and put some nice 'old school' aluminum rims on her.
For future upgrades in safety and reliability, I would check into getting better brakes on her. Probably manual discs off a Maverick or Granada.

Good luck!
Dave

 

Well done...you got a deal for sure...tell me what else are you gonna buy for 600 bucks and drive it till the wheels fall off
I don't car what anyone says...4 doors look good

 

Nice ride!

Like Jamie said on the brakes, back up and hit the brakes, it only adjusts on "the hit" so keep stabbing the brakes several times. First, pull the drums and make sure all is well and the star adjuster is free! Thats the screw at bottom and you''ll see a cable going down to it. Pull on cable an let go, that will move the arm on adjuster showing you which way screw has to go. That screw may be froze an need worked free or replaced. Good Luck.