I'm getting closer and closer to paint.

I've spent my time lately sanding, filling, re-sanding, re-filling, sanding re-filing. (you get the picture) I am about 75% down to galzing putty. 75% spot primed.

The wife is going to Fla for 3 weeks and while she's gone, I'm moving into her garage and do the painting.

My idea is shop vac the ceiling and walls and the floor and keep the doors closed. Any other suggestions? This is my first car painting exercise. I'm doing that Rust-oleum roller paint job.
I am borrowing more lights to augment what I have. The garage is dark as a pocket.

 

Thanks, I'll need it

 

Bob wet down the floor to prevent kicking up any remaining dust.

 

Can't wait to see the result. What color?

 

Make sure you have some ventilation too

 

...yes...ventilation. I've seen that done with regular box fans before (and it worked).

 

Bob, that is really cool. I can't wait to hear your expience with this stuff. One really good point is you won't have to worry about overspray. I have only seen pics of cars done this way and you know how pics can make things look real good when they aren't or visa versa, so it will be great to know some one who is doing it. I just don't see how it can be as smooth as the pics I've seen, may be alot of sanding and buffing. Like KLG73 asked what color are you going to use? Bob, it is impressive that you are doing all this to your maverick, you should be very happy.

 

Bob, I'm not sure when I'll be over there again - but when I am I'd like to come by and see the results (unless you plan on having it done by the 26th). Like Ward, I have only seen pictures of this process.

 

It will be Rust-oleum Gloss black #7779.
Thanks for the good wishes.. I look at it this way. If it comes out awful, I can just run it up to Maaco and let them spray it for $250 or so. The prep work will be all done.

 

Yup, my suggestion also. Helps greatly!

Chris

 

I was told by a painter once that any sort of aersol lubricant, teflon, or silicone spray will ruin a paint job from 100 yards away. The stuff gets on your clean surface and it's over. He said WD40, for example, will float on the air for a long time, and the breeze will take it right where you don't want it.

Just a heads up... I don't know if it's true or not, but he knows what he is doing and it sounds reasonable.

Good luck.

 

"Easy Paint your Car" web site... good info...

Here's my two bits...

I have heard that's a HUGE NO-NO... I was about to do the same thing in my carport for painting... apparently you'll create a moist environment on wet cement, and add moisture to the air (and the car) and also slow the evaporation in solvent-based paint which will affect curing and dry time. Shop vac and let the dust settle should do it.

Moisture makes the paint clump (orange peel???), and if you disconnect the battery then "ground" the car you eliminate static so dust doesn't get drawn or settle on the car while it's still wet.

I'm not an expert on home-painting... but I found this web site really good for a guy who does painting at home in his carport...

MUST check out all the free info and ideas here...

http://easypaintyourcar.com/

I will be enclosing my carport in the spring (poly sheets to create a barrier) and try doing a home paint job as well...

Good luck!

Whiskeee

 

In Canada I guess that's Tremclad... which is what I've used mostly on my Red Comet... how does the roller process work?... very thin coats and lotsa patience? I've had nothing but problems with drips and paint pooling up when I try to repair a section at a time when the surface is perpendicular (ie the doors).

 

If you live in a dry climate wetting the floor wont help(evaporation)if you live in a humid climate it makes the humidity worse and can cause blemishes in the paint.The thing to do is wet the floor then squeegee it off to remove the loose dust that can get kicked up.Dont make the floor wet,you will kick water onto your rockers/lower quarters and paint with water spots (looks like fish eyes) isnt appealing.