i saw a referecne that mega squirt controler is avaible that plugs into the ford efi harness. ive searched on line and can not find any more info on this. does anybody have more infor on this?
Google megascott and eec-iv adapter board. I have used one and it keeps you from having to hack a harness to run MS. That way you can uplug the MS, and stick a Ford EEC back in there if you ever sell the car or plans change. Both of which I have done Also check out diyautotune.com. I ordered all my MS stuff from them. I ran a MS-1 v3.0 PCB with MSnS-E code that allowed me to control fuel and spark. I am still tossing the idea around for EFI on the Mav. I can do a carb setup cheaper, but with EFi I could go out and turn the key regardless of weather and the car would fire right up and run reliably with no worries.
did you get the kit where you do all the soddering or the assembled one. ive got very minimum experience sodering circutboard and am curious as to the dificulty of this.
I did buy the kit and soldered it myself. I had minimal experience soldering, and was able to complete the MS very easily. The soldering I have done is on tiny surface mount components such as PC video card volt mods, and the MS-I was very easy compared to that. If you buy a decent 15/30 watt pen style soldering iron, you should have no problem soldering the MS-I kit together after a little bit of practice.
from looking on the differnet m.s. sites it looks like the ms1 doesnt have spark contole. you refrence something that gave you spark controle. is it a softwear update or a hardwear up grade? i would be interested in nitrous controle would the ms1 do it or do i need the ms2? thanks for your info.
MS-I does allow spark control with a few simple assembly mods during the build, and a software update. Megasquirt-n-Spark-Extra is the code I abbreviated earlier. It allows full control of fuel and spark. Also, it controls air idle motors, be it stepper, on/off, or PWM such as the stock EFI ford units. It allows some other things such as rev limiter functionality. I'm not sure of N2O control, though I am almost positive MS-II allows for that. You may have to run an alternate firmware on MS-II to gain those functions though. I did not do nearly the research for MS-II that I did for MS-I because I knew MS-I would do all I needed it to do for less money, and I knew more people at the time running and tuning on MS-I so I figured I would have more help along the way. One thing that is cool that MS-II WILL do is read the input from an O2 sensor and trim fuel tables automatically using target AFR lookup tables. Sorta a closed loop fuel trim capability. I liked the MS-I setup, and I built an MS-II for my friends 240, but he has yet to run it because he has to switch to a Ford EDIS ignition first. MS-II is definitely a more robust(and faster) EEC, so if I do go EFI on the Mav, it will likely be MS-II. There are alot more people running it now, and the price difference is not so huge if you go with a through hole PCB. As long as you have a friend or spouse to drive for you while you tune, you can nail it down pretty quickly. I had a basic tune nailed down in about 1/2 an hour with the wife driving. It started reliably, cruised at 14:1 and WOT was at 12.5-13:1 pretty much across the board. What takes time is nailing prefect cold starts, fast idle warmup routines, accel enrichment shots, etc. The little stuff. I daily drove my car to work on my basic tune though and never had any problems with it.
i think im sold. im going to slowly start collecting efi parts. i have a some left from my old 5.0 mustang. do you use the factory efi manifold or have you used the spyder intake? if youve use the spyder or something like what did you use for a throttlebody? is there a inexpensive throttle body option for a carb based intake for fuel injection?
I was running an Explorer efi intake on my Capri. No way I could afford a spyder, those things are mad expensive. As a matter of fact, I'm not aware of any EFI setup that is inexpensive compared to a comparable carb setup. Its still nice to turn the key whether its -15° or 100° and always have the same behavior. Its also easy to dial in a tune with a few keyboard inputs as opposed to jetting, drilling PCVRs, changing boosters and pump cams etc.
