more brake fun!

Discussion in 'Technical' started by xpsnake, Aug 17, 2005.

  1. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
    Messages:
    1,405
    Likes Received:
    184
    Trophy Points:
    177
    Location:
    Maryville, IL (near STL)
    Vehicle:
    1971 Ford Maverick 2-door
    OK, I've spent months researching, buying parts, reading, asking questions, etc. Here's where I stand, I have found the fittings on the '74 and '77 non-power master cylinders to be the same, whether it is a parts company mix up or not. So, my solution now is to do the following: Use the '77 MC, the '77 prop. valve, '77 front brake lines, and only have to re-flare the line that runs to the rear axle.

    My question is, is the prop. valve for a power brake car different than a manual brake car?

    Also, there is a "big" chamber and "small" chamber in the new MC, does the larger chamber get hooked up to the caliper end of things?
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2005
  2. Mavaholic

    Mavaholic Growing older but not up!

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2002
    Messages:
    14,992
    Likes Received:
    209
    Trophy Points:
    258
    Location:
    Live Oak, FL
    Vehicle:
    Original 72 Sprint Owner, 71 Comet GT, 57 Ranchwagon, 57 4 dr Wagon
    Dont know if there is a difference in the valve but the big end goes to the front.
     
  3. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
    Messages:
    1,405
    Likes Received:
    184
    Trophy Points:
    177
    Location:
    Maryville, IL (near STL)
    Vehicle:
    1971 Ford Maverick 2-door
    OK, bottom lines turns out to be that I've had to buy a half dozen fitting adaptors to make everything link up correctly, fittings for the prop. valve, MC, front brake lines, etc.
     
  4. waynes fords

    waynes fords Member

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2004
    Messages:
    659
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    fayetteville,Georgia
    Vehicle:
    1973 grabber,2004 ford dually,2000 gulfstream motorhome,2003 ford expedition,66 mustang gt
    you don't want to many fitting!! anywhere there is a junction you have the potential for a leak, if anything, use or make a junction block and don't have lines "fitted" together. also your front brakes do about 60% of the stopping of the car so make sure you have the front brakes connected to the larger side of the M/C reservoir and the back to the secondary or smaller side, it sounds like you are not to familiar with brakes,I'm not being rude or mean but this is one system on your car that has to be right, if at all possible get some help or ask a friend or family member with more experience and get er' fixed up,if I can help I will just email or call me. wayne
     
  5. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2002
    Messages:
    4,187
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Southern Colorado
    Vehicle:
    '73 Maverick 2-door, V-8
    There is absolutely no difference in the prop-valve used for power and non-power disc brakes in these cars. The drum brake-equipped models (and '74 drum and disc models) utilize only a distribution block, which is not a prop valve. I suggest (my opinion here) that you not even mess with the factory prop-valve (and all of the re-flaring involved) and go with an aftermarket adjustable prop-valve inline to the rear brakes. Just re-flare the ends of the 2 short lines coming out of the new master cylinder to the distribution block, and if necessary, re-flare the front lines that go to each front wheel. In other words; keep it as simple as possible. I agree with the previous post that you do not want any more adaptor fittings than absolutely necessary. There is a factory-used adaptor fitting on the passenger-side front brake line right where it comes through the little hole in the spring tower. Your disc brake front line should thread right into that. The driver-side line may require re-flaring to thread into the distribution block, unless you end up going with the factory prop valve, in which case you will be replacing almost all of the lines and as you said, just re-flaring the rear line. Keep in mind that the fitting on the rear line is very difficult to get to and re-flare. It may not even reach the prop-valve once the end is cut off and re-flared, which is why I like my first suggestion for the conversion much better...
     
  6. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2002
    Messages:
    4,187
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Southern Colorado
    Vehicle:
    '73 Maverick 2-door, V-8
    One other thing;
    Larry and I both used '74 front disc brake lines on our '73 Mavericks, which have the same size fittings as the original system, but are the proper bend and length. This made things so much easier.

    My suggestion in any case, is to try to think things through ahead of time so that you do as little re-flaring as possible...
     
  7. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
    Messages:
    1,405
    Likes Received:
    184
    Trophy Points:
    177
    Location:
    Maryville, IL (near STL)
    Vehicle:
    1971 Ford Maverick 2-door
    Guys, where I have to use adapters is on the flex line ends, the rear brake line going into the prop. valve, and one side of the master cylinder. I simply can't FIND the right 3/16's to whatever steel nuts, so I HAVE to use adapters.

    I'm well aware that more fittings = more potential for leaks, but these adapters were made for a reason. All in all I will have 4 adaptors on the car, one for the rear, one for each caliper flex hose, and one for the 1/2" on the MC. Everything else will be re-flared and fitted with the correct ends.

    I'm not talking about "linking" two pieces of brake line together, but making the correct "line end" fittings FIT. Hope that clears things up.
     
  8. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2002
    Messages:
    4,187
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Southern Colorado
    Vehicle:
    '73 Maverick 2-door, V-8
    You should not need ANY adaptors for the front flex-lines. None whatsoever. If you're using adaptors for those, you're doing something wrong...
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2005
  9. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
    Messages:
    1,405
    Likes Received:
    184
    Trophy Points:
    177
    Location:
    Maryville, IL (near STL)
    Vehicle:
    1971 Ford Maverick 2-door
    TL, perhaps they gave me the wrong lines, we shall see. I could swear the '77 lines have a bigger end on them, but they're stripped and rusted to heck.
     
  10. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
    Messages:
    1,405
    Likes Received:
    184
    Trophy Points:
    177
    Location:
    Maryville, IL (near STL)
    Vehicle:
    1971 Ford Maverick 2-door
    I was corect, the '77 lines have a 1/4" fitting that's made for a 3/16" line, these fittings simply aren't made for the aftermarket, I have checked with a dozen suppliers in my area and can't come up with squat, I appreciate any advice.
     
  11. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
    Messages:
    1,405
    Likes Received:
    184
    Trophy Points:
    177
    Location:
    Maryville, IL (near STL)
    Vehicle:
    1971 Ford Maverick 2-door
    And to answer one more question, I haven't gone with an aftermarket prop. valve because I don't have a) time to order one, I move to college tomorrow b) money to spend on one, so I hope the stock '77 works out for me.
     
  12. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2002
    Messages:
    4,187
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Southern Colorado
    Vehicle:
    '73 Maverick 2-door, V-8
    Well, if you're changing all of the lines to '77, then the '77 flex-hoses should fit without adaptors. I'm a bit confused about what you're dealing with. Your profile says you have a '77 Maverick, in which case it would already have front disc brakes as standard equipment from the factory. So why are you having to do a disc brake swap on a '77?...
     
  13. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
    Messages:
    1,405
    Likes Received:
    184
    Trophy Points:
    177
    Location:
    Maryville, IL (near STL)
    Vehicle:
    1971 Ford Maverick 2-door
    I have a '71, I am using the system from the now defunct. '77. The fitting on the '77 lines are rusted and rounded off, I must replace them. HOWEVER, they do not sell the fittings I need for the '77 lines, anywhere.
     
  14. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2002
    Messages:
    4,187
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Southern Colorado
    Vehicle:
    '73 Maverick 2-door, V-8
    I suggest getting new lines from The Right Stuff. They're not expensive and it will make the job so much easier. Either that or find some in good shape from a junk yard...

    www.rightstuffdetailing.com
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2005
  15. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
    Messages:
    1,405
    Likes Received:
    184
    Trophy Points:
    177
    Location:
    Maryville, IL (near STL)
    Vehicle:
    1971 Ford Maverick 2-door
    I hate doing things like this, but I MUST get the car driveable. I'm crossing my fingers for no leaks, this christmas I can replace the lines, but until then, I need something to drive
     

Share This Page