QUICK!!! Before I take out the valve body...

Discussion in 'Technical' started by scooper77515, Sep 4, 2005.

  1. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    I need to replace the o-ring and seal at the shift linkage on my C-4. I will do a fluid swap at the same time. When I pull the valve body out, do I need to worry about anything falling out and getting lost (ball-valves, springs, etc)?

    I will do a complete rebuild with a shift kit this winter, but for now, I have to get the leak stopped.

    Any other suggestions/warnings before I get into this? This is my first time to mess with the trans, other than swapping filter and fluid.
     
  2. MapleMav

    MapleMav Member

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    When you take the filter off there'll be a small spring and piston in behind it. Be careful not to lose them as you'll have problems if they're not put back in.
     
  3. texas_maverick

    texas_maverick Member

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    make sure the piston goes into the tranny not against the filter.
     
  4. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    I have done this once before, and discarded the plug that was floating around. Previous posts reported that it was a plug for the dipstick hole that is pushed down into the pan at assembly.

    Is there any valves, balls, etc. that I can leave out to improve performance, or do I need to reassemble as disassembled?

    Thanks for reminding me of the spring/piston.
     
  5. Erick-Mav

    Erick-Mav Maverick Punk

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    If you are taking the valve body out, you should go ahead and install a shift kit now. They are cheap, really easy to install, and work really good. The kit will have some new balls and will have directions on what to add, leave out, etc.
     
  6. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    your tranny "will have some new balls" that has got to be good. you mentioned "fluid swap" are you going to something diff. or just new fluid? ..frank...:bouncy:
     
  7. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    New fluid, minus what is in the converter.

    I asked this question a few weeks back, Shift Kit now??? I have 58K miles on original tranny, and have been warned against a shift kit without rebuilding.

    Also got notice that shift kit will increase the life of the trans, as it will spend less time "spinning" between gears.
     
  8. Erick-Mav

    Erick-Mav Maverick Punk

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    After reading your other thread I think you should just yank the tranny and do a rebuild and get it over with. I did one for the first time and it was alot easier than I thought it was going to be. It was actually pretty fun. The hardest part is removing the tranny and cleaning everything. I brought my parts to the local tranny rebuild supply shop and he gave me only what I needed. It was about $125 and included a new intermediate drum and a few thrust washers. You'll get all the rubber and metal seals, paper gaskets and clutches with a rebuild kit. The other things you may need depending on whats damaged are drums, steels, thrust washers, and pump.

    My tranny was slipping in 1-2 and 2-3, then I added a shift kit and it shifted hard 1-2 and only had minor slipping on 2-3. When I rebuilt it there was a broken seal and the clutches were really worn. Since mine will be for racing, I also added a hardened input shaft, new pump, new torque converter, new PA reverse manual valve body, deep pan, new PA selenoid, and racing clutches.

    If my daily driver tranny was shifting fine and I was on a budget, I would just add a shift kit and see how long it lasts, maybe a long time. Then if and when it goes bad, do the rebuild at that time. I'm definitely no expert though. Good luck.
     
  9. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    This is my weekend driver. Race it on weekends, maybe 3-4 per year. When the weather gets cooler, I might race more, get it into brackets?

    There is currently no slippage at all between any gears. I like the way you say "it was actually pretty fun". If it is that easy, I will do it myself.

    How much does the entire trans weigh, out of the car and empty
     
  10. fordman

    fordman Member

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    when you get the shaft out the in side shaft most of the time is the leak all it has in it is a o ring for a seal. drive a 3/8 steel ball in it and do away with that shaft. the out side shaft has a good lip seal on it
     
  11. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    Don't know how much C4's weigh, but I picked mine up and carried it about 5 feet and then mated it up to the engine and held the tail shaft up with one hand while I started the 2 top bolts (engine was hanging on a hoist). They are heavy, but not unbearable.

    I would definately suggest you get someone to help you move it if at all possible. But it can be done alone if your by yourself.

    Sounds like your in about the same boat as I am transmission wise, I'll be watching to see how it turns out.
     
  12. Max Power

    Max Power Vintage Ford Mafia

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    I have installed shift kits for years on "experienced" transmissions. There really doesn't seem to be any harm in it, especially if the tranny is working OK otherwise. Tranny kits *can* save wear and tear on the tranny, depending on the kit. Trans-Go touts the fact that their kits not only firm up shifts, but do a better job of coordinating flow so that the wear is reduced. I have heard that the cheaper B&M kits merely make the shifts harder and don't reduce wear. Not sure if it is true.

    The Trans-Go kit usually has a number of springs as well as check balls, etc, where the B&M kit is much simpler, which leads me to believe the Trans-Go kit is better thought out. I have used both and both seem to work well.
     
  13. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Max,

    I cannot find "Trans-Go" in Jegs. Do you have a part number, or is it under another name?

    The TCI shift kit also has springs and balls, and comes with a drill to make some holes bigger. Is this comparable, in your opinion?
     
  14. Max Power

    Max Power Vintage Ford Mafia

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    Last edited: Sep 8, 2005

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