So I'm replacing the intake and carb with a 4bbl intake and carb, and when I pulled the distributor out to make pulling the intake easier, I forgot to mark where the rotor was in it's rotation. My question is: How do I go about reinstalling the distributor correctly? Timing has always been a difficult experience. Also, how do I go about removing egr from the car? I don't plan on having egr since there are no inspections around here. I plan on installing the new intake and carb early next week.:bananaman Is there anything I should work on while I have the intake off the car? Also, any tips on installing the new intake and carb? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Jonathan P.S. I am installing a Performer 289 intake with a 600cfm performer carb.
Ok, distributor. Pull out number one spark plug, plug the hole with your thumb or finger and slowly crank the engine over just until your thumb gets pushed out of the hole. Then set the timing marks at zero degrees. Drop your distributor in so that the rotor is pointing to number one on the distributor with the vacuum advance pointing slightly to the left (you will notice that the teeth are helically cut so that when you drop in the distributor the rotor will turn on you, you will have to make sure that the rotor is turned enough before dropping it in so that when it does rotate it will drop in pointing to #1). This will give you a basic static timing to get the engine fired up and you can advance or retard it from there as required. p.s. I the distributor will not drop all the way in it's due to the oil pump shaft not meshing with the distributor. Just hold down on the distributor while slowly bumping over the engine, it will drop in and your timing will not be affected. As for the egr, if your going with the aftermarket intake, nothing to worry about, this eliminates the egr, just need to buy a small spacer if required but not too tall, 1/2" should do. While you have the intake off the car just give the lifter valley a check for any sludge or foreign objects laying in there and be careful if cleaning any of this out. Also, when reinstalling the intake, chuck out the end seals that are supplied with the gasket kit and use a good bead of silicone in place of them. Also make sure you get the correct intake gaskets for the year of your heads, 68-76 had small water jackets and 77+up were larger and will cause problems if incorrect. Remember to torque the intake down in the proper sequence and use washers under the bolts if using the stock intake bolts to prevent galling the aluminum. Initial set-up of the carb, turn your idle mixture screws a turn and a half out from all the way in. Again, this will give you a good base to start with and you can fine tune once running. I personally always fabricate a new steel fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb while doing this swap with an inline fuel filter, you can pick up a few foot section of armored pre-made steel line (makes for easier bending) and cut to fit with your filter inbetween. Any other help don't be afraid to ask, there is usually someone on the board here who is more than willing to help out. Good luck with the swap and have fun!
if the intake is off turn the balancer and look at the lifters and rotate till #1 intake lifter is at it's highest point bring balancer index to "0" on timing marker then as Rob said drop in the dizzy at#1
Turn the balancer to 0 degrees. Take out the number one plug. Use a rod/scewdriver/small finger to feel if the piston is at the top. If not rotate the engine over once till 0 degrees again. Check for the piston again. EGR either a new intake without it, a block off plate, or simply unhook the vaccum line to the EGR then it will set there closed off all the time.
Nope. The #1 piston will be at the top both times. One for cpmpression stroke and one for exhaust. Indexing it that way only gives you a 50/50 chance of getting it right. You need to fire the plug after the compression stroke, not the exhaust. Remember, the crank spins twice for every single rotation of the cam. I always pull the number one plus and bump the ignition with an underhood switch (coil wire pulled off, of course). With my thumb or finger in the #1 plug hole, you can feel which stroke you are on, intake or exhaust. Air will rush past your finger in the compression stroke( it will go out the exhaust port on the exhaust stroke). THEN set the balancer timing mark to the next zero. That's the stroke you want to set the rotor to fire on.
I down toward Hot Springs. Well, I got the car running today and is running great. I don't think I got the distributor in right though. The car doesn't want to start most of the time. Timing has always been a problem for me. Is there a way to rotate the engine manually without having to engage the starter? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Jonathan
You can rotate it w/ a socker,extension, ratchet. Put it on the crank pulley bolt. This will work but easier w/ the starter. If it runs, it should be in right, try moving the distributor counterclockwise and bolting it back down, see how that works. Just play w/ it going each way a tiny bit and see what happens
Ok, today I had better luck. I had the gap too wide for the pertronix. I now have the timing set at 6 BTDC and the car is running great. I changed the oil and she's ready for the trip cross country. Thanks again for all the helps, Jonathan
