So its getting to be that time again. The last thing we did on the 302 was pull the manifold and oil pan. Everything on the inside looks great. Best of all she turns. Now I am putting together a list of supplies of what I'll need to start the 302 (which is pulled right now) the next time I'm up at the garage. Torque Wrench A Harmonic Balancer Puller A Three-jaw Gear Puller Timing Light Tube of Silicone Sealer Timing Chain Cover Gasket Set New Timing Chain and Gears Drain Pan Antifreeze Engine oil Battery Oil pan gaskets Intake gaskets Oil filter fuel filter heater hoses caps vacuum caps transmission fluid distilled water (for radiator) fresh gas fully charged battery or battery charger new T-stat w/burp hole drill and socket to prime engine I'm trying to think of anything else I might be missing before I go up there, driving back and forth is such a pain cause our garage is out in the country. Approx an hour away from the next city haha. I'm just making sure im prepared for the big day. Anyways any input on what I might need would be appreciated! -Andrew
First thing I thought of too was gaskets. Also make sure you've got plugs and wires if you're going to change them. New fuel filter. Make sure you have all the hoses. If you are not going to hook up the heater hoses you might need something to plug the water pump. some caps and vacuum caps too.
I was at a car show, and this guy told me that the oil sold today lacks the zinc needed for our older engines. 96 and older. Cams where being eaten up in the first 10 minuets of startup.
He somewhat mislead you. The lack of ZDDP will not eat up a cam in ten minutes. I've had two cam lobe failures in the past ten years and neither was due to a lack of ZDDP in the oil. Both cams wiped a single lobe and lifter in the first twenty minutes run time. If it were due to a lack of ZDDP, then all 16 lobes would have been affected. Lack of ZDDP may affect wear rates in flat tappet cams, but this will happen over a much longer period of time.
I wiped a single lobe back in 1980, I think oil had zinc back then...a guy told me I didn't break the cam in correctly, I thought then it was strange that only "one lobe" wasn't broken in correctly... ......
what all was done to the engine while it was out? transmission fluid distilled water (for radiator) fresh gas fully charged battery or battery charger new T-stat w/burp hole drill and socket to prime engine I start my engines on...straight water...then add coolant after run in. this way if there is a leak there won't be a mess/waste of antifreeze if you buy a gasket set...open it and make sure all the gaskets you need are in there and none are torn or damaged...
I don't mean to mislead anyone. In my experience, I was shocked to see what this guy was showing me. I pulled out the flyer And it basically says The current SN rated oil has 600 parts per million of (ZDDP) Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate. Aflat bottom lifter engine requires a minimum of 1600(ppm) to prevent premature ware on lifters, cam and other moving parts. This guys video may have got me to lessen to his sales pitch and may have bin misleading with 10 minuet eat cam time. I think it would still be wise to use a good motor oil.
There are a lot of materials that have been removed from oil, and the fuel you use in the past 10-20 years. And just about all have been replaced with something that performs the same function. And these same additives are sometimes more harmful to the engines they're used in or to the people who handle them. That's just your "friendly" EPA's handiwork. The fact that you were "shocked" by his sales pitch makes his misleading you all the worse.
A note from experience. If the motor came from a manual trans car and you use an auto trans, there is the pilot bearing in the end of the crank that needs to be removed before the touque converter will slip into place.
Manifold, oil pan, covers were removed, new distributer. Thats it. Great tip too I'll definately use it! On the oil topic. What do you guys buy? I was recommended 10w30.
