What's the easiest way to install my new gears and Powertrax locker in my punkin? The cars up on jacks now, but how do I get the punkin out? (I told you I haven't done this stuff for 35 years! I'm allowed a couple of dumb questions aren't I?) Do I take the entire rear-end out, or? Do I start by taking off the tires? Be basic guys, I'm slow but trainable! I need somebody to get me started on the right track. I have a dial indicator, magnetic base, and recall a few years in a machine shop, so I can handle the technical stuff. I've got the Richmond video tape, and a lot of patience, but how the heck does the punkin come out? OK, stop laughing and start typing. Grant
Grant, yes take off the wheels. Then take off the brake drums, good time to inspect all the brake hardware. Now my memory is fuzzy on pulling the axles but I think 4 bolts each axle? Remember, 1 axle will be longer than the other ( good to retain for reassembly. When both axles are out the pumpkin can be unbolted and pulled out. Oh yeah, the brake lines need undone at the backing plates. Sheesh, I am a lousy teacher, but this should get it apart. Remember safety first! Use good jackstands and it doesnt hurt to lay the wheels under the car in case it should fall. Good Luck! Dan
dan, i may be wrong, but i don't ever remember taking off the brake lines. you should be able to unbolt the axles and if there a little hard to pull out bolt the drums to the axles backwards, firm but not too tight, and give them a jerk. just like a slide hammer. after that just unbolt the driveshaft and the pumkin and carefully pry it out. make sure you have a pan underneath(and kitty litter nearby). watch out it's pretty heavy. might even put a jack underneath it. i can't help you out much on the setup as i had a friend do mine.
Don, you are right. I was thinking of my car too hard on replying. Mine has rear disc brakes. And the calipers and all need to come off as well as brake lines. My bad. Dan
You've got a floor??? I've got a damn gravel driveway! (true!) Seriously guys, thanks for the input. I've got an idea how to start, and don't be surprised if I ask more "obvious" questions along the way. I'll keep you all posted on my progress. Perhaps even a photo or two. I'm having a blast, and my wife thinks I'm nuts! Grant
Hey Grant, thought I would put in my .02 worth. It will be a bit long so sit back and grab a brewski or soda pop and read the old guys version of how to. Plywood sheet on gravel is what I have used, After sliding the axles out as described before, remove all the nuts. Pry everyone of those damn copper washers off and send them to the scrap pile. They are squeezed against the studs and will make removing the punkin a pain. Then screw one nut back on a bit for a safety factor, using a tapered device such as a small chisel or never to be used again screwdriver start to wedge the punkin out. These things are not only heavy but awkward to handle because of their design, two people and or a jack will help. Skipping over the rebuild process for now, clean the old grease and gasket etc. from the housing. Reinstall the punkin using either a new gasket or in most cases now, a bead of silicone sealer. Would not be a bad idea to run a die nut over the studs beforehand too. Do not reinstall those washers, have not seen many instances of the grease leaking out around the studs as Ford had originally thought they would. Check axle bearings and u-joints and reinstall. You have done it and be proud. Now spend an hour cleaning up the mess on yourself and the driveway then test drive( don't forget to fill with new grease). I have much faith in you doing this job, but will add another little item that you may want to ponder. When installing the gears etc. you will need a good bench and large vise to hold the punkin for disassembly and rebuild. Also a 1/2 impact and asst. sockets and such, After cleaning the thing up a bit, mark the two carrier bearing caps and adjusting rings with a center punch on the side they come off of. Helps in reassembly process, Assuming you are using a kit with new bearings and seals then a press should not be needed for installation or removal of pinion bearings but may have to on the cariier bearings. Installation of new ones can be done with an ingenous method I use when the wife is not home. Cookie sheet in the cookstove oven @ 250 deg. for about 20min or so. They will drop right on with help of a pair of welding gloves. This also works well for the ring gear. Have the vent fan going because new parts will stink up the kitchen and we don't want the misses too know what we have done . Now the last thing I will mention is about using the new crush sleeve in the kit. It is in my opinion a lot easier and works just fine if the old one is in good shape, to use it over. Otherwise you will need a ten foot piece of pipe on your 3/4 breaker bar and socket on the pinion nut to get that new one to crush. Only deal on using the old one over is to adjust the torque on the nut so the pinion rotates rather freely with just the right amount of bearing preload(comes from feel after doing a bunch of these) Also use some loktite on the nut for added security. Got to go now and prepare to head to the strip for a day of fun and games. Will help if you need more info on the gear and pinion depth setting if you need it. With all this caffine am ready to fly away or in my case, hobble to the truck and grimmace as I try to get this old body up in the seat . Later my friend. P.S. Hi Jerry
