Valve adjustment

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Bob Wiken, Apr 12, 2009.

  1. Bob Wiken

    Bob Wiken Chronologically Gifted

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    Help. I can't seem to get my valves adjusted properly. I've done it 3 or 4 times. Everytime I start the car, for a few seconds and check, there are a couple of rocker arm nuts that are loose. i.e. finger adjustable. What am I doing wrong? I've tried 2 or 3 different ways with the same results. I stumped.
     
  2. Blown 5.0

    Blown 5.0 Hooked on BOOST MEMBER

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    How much preload are you using? Are the nuts worn out?
     
  3. Bob Wiken

    Bob Wiken Chronologically Gifted

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    I have bolts in my rockers
     
  4. ford84stepside

    ford84stepside Lone Wolf

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    If you have the bolts, you just torque them down tight, there are no other adjustments unless you use shims....
     
  5. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    sounds like your adjusting them like studmount rockers and that you are adjusting them while they are on the lobes of the cam. with bolt down rockers you bolt them down to 15 ft/lbs. you check the contact pattern on the valve stem by puting grease on it and turn the motor over 2 full rotations by hand. the rockerarm should stay pretty centered on the valve stem. if you need to adjust it you have to shim under the pedistal (you should have padistals that the rocker arm sits on) or get a longer or shorter push rod.
     
  6. Blown 5.0

    Blown 5.0 Hooked on BOOST MEMBER

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    You set the preload just as you would on any other hydraulic lifter, Once the slack is removed from the push rod there should be no more than 60 thousands preload. The best way to check is to put a dial indicator on the push rod side of the rocker, At zero clearance, Zero the dial, the dial should go somewhere around 60 thousands when the bolt Thur the rocker tightens down.( you may have to wait a minute or two for the lifter to bleed off) If you go very much past 60 thousands (I would say + 20) then you will need shims, If you don't go to 60 thousands ( i would at least want 30 +) Then the pedestal will have to be milled down. But keep in mind the push rod length, Especially if you have to mill the pedestal. Usually shims are needed instead of the milling. I use a black magic marker to check the roller tip track on the valve stem. This is assuming you use roller rockers.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2009
  7. Blown 5.0

    Blown 5.0 Hooked on BOOST MEMBER

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    You did say nuts.
     
  8. Bob Wiken

    Bob Wiken Chronologically Gifted

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    NO, I have bolts. Nuts was an error
     
  9. bradleygt

    bradleygt Member

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    check your rocker stands for cracks had the same problem on one motor of mine you can get new ones from the dealer if running stock rockers or from summit for your aftermarket rockers

    brad:)
     
  10. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    Sounds like he's got pedestal rockers. Torque em down to 25 ft/lbs. No special sequence needed.
     
  11. AppMaverick

    AppMaverick Member

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    No special sequence as in, it doesn't matter in what position the lifters are in?
    (I know this is an old thread..)
     
  12. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member Supporting Member

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    With pedistals, lifters on the lobe base circle, from zero lash to 25 lb-ft torque should take from 1/4 to 1 full turn of the bolt. Any more or any less turning requires shimming the rails or different length push rods.
     
  13. AppMaverick

    AppMaverick Member

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    Sweet! Thanks! That will help double check my pushrod length :tiphat: I already have most of them done. I'll do it on a couple and see how it lays.
    Thanks!
     
  14. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    I've never bothered with getting the lifters on the base circle, completely unnecessary step in doing so with pedestal rockers.
     
  15. AppMaverick

    AppMaverick Member

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    Woohoo! That's awesome! I did them all with the lifters down and in firing order haha, but it means I definitely didn't mess that part up! :bananaman
     

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