What does/will/did it cost?

I need to have the rings and seals replaced in my 302 in the Comet. I need to know the cost because it's a big determining factor on whether or not I'm keeping it. I don't mind spending, but I do have monetary considerations.

And does anyone know a reputable company to do it for me in AZ? I'm ballsy enough to tackle it myself (as soon as the Maverick is reliable enough for a daily driver) but I'm living in an apartment complex and will be moving back to Yuma within a year or so, so I'm not going to buy/rent a house up here any time soon.

Thanks,
Steve

 

I'd bet it'd be cheaper to try and find a good used motor. Look for a low mileage wrecked 5.0l mustang. Time you get the motor to the machine shop it will cost more than you planned on

 

It's just that engine in here is good, just smokes. And it's already had work done to it. And then I'd have to have someone install the new engine for me anyways.

That would cost more than I'd expect, too.

 

If you're going to rebuld the motor that's in it (re-ring it, new bearings, etc), you'll pull it out either way. So you're looking at removing the engine whether you use a salvage motor or not.
I think the question is why does it smoke? Is it blue smoke (oil)? If it is, is it a problem in the rings or the heads? If it is JUST the heads, you could get away with leaving the motor in and pulling the heads.

 

It's oil. The guy who I got the car from said it was seals, which I think is too hopeful of him, so I assume it's rings.

 

If its the rings then you'll be pulling the motor anyway. Pickup up a motor from a salvage may be a cheaper way to go. You can get the motor from the salvage and bolt all your goodies to it - like the manifolds, carb, ignition, etc.
OR
You could rebuild that motor, but most likely it will need to be bored. I've heard of guys using .002 over rings and honing out the stock bore, but I've never done that myself.

If the machine shop cleans up, bores, and does a line hone on the block it'll probably be, what, maybe $300? Add the head work - valve job, etc - maybe another $200? Then you'll buy the gasket set, bearings, rings, and oversize pistons. What, maybe $300? If you're going to reuse your lifters and cam, then that'll about do it for a stock motor. If you go the route of trying to hone the cylinders and use .002 pistons, you'll save the cost of the pistons as well as the bore charge.
All in all, that's around $800 + labor. You can probably buy a salvage motor for $500 or less. These prices are my guestimates from past experience. Prices differ by location.

 

He may have been referring to valve seals. Which might indicate it just needs a good valve job only.

 

Y'know, maybe I'll go that route.

You're in Phoenix.. y'know any good, reliable machine shops? I've never had any major work done since I've moved here, so I haven't even been looking.

 

NAPA shops usually do a pretty good job. Better call around as I think some of them are better equipped than others at doing automotive machine work.

 

And is there anything that I could observe that would be indicative of bad valve seals vs. worn rings?

All I know is that the engine runs strong -- very strong. Smooth idle, lots of power. It smokes at startup and quits once it's warm. If I drive it, let it get warm then turn it off and back on, it will smoke again, but quits pretty quick.

 

A compression test followed up with a leak down test would give you an indication as to what is going on.

 

Exactly!!
I just dropped a short block off at the machine shop, for them to dissamble, hot tank and magnaflux will cost me $400.00, thats just to take it apart and check & clean, then putting it back together is a whole other story.

 

I have been looking at having mine bored and stroked to 347....the machine work is CHEAP, relatively. The new crank, rods, and pistons are expensive. If you keep the stock stuff and just have it machined and new rings, I bet it would be under $500, like closer to the $300 Rando is talking about.

 

Yeah, my estimate was for all stock stuff - because as we all know, horsepower = $money$ Let's not even discuss how much custom head work will cost.

 

Pop the valve covers off and have a look. The seals are rubber and they harden over time. I've seen some so bad that they just crumble apart. You'll know as soon as you take a peek and it doesn't cost anything to look.