what would you do? diff question

i started this thread yesterday
http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?p=750662#post750662

i have the stock 8 in my car with just over 400hp. i am trying to figure what to do next.
i have the option of making my 8, a 2 wheel drive rear end with a mini-spool, but am getting people saying that a mini-spool is too aggressive for the street.

i also have a 9 from a 1958 ranch wagon. direct bolt in but in need of total rebuild before i can use it. this rear end is not 2 wheel drive either. i need to do something and am wondering what is the most cost effective, bigist bang for the buck, option. the cost estimate for rebuilding the 9 is around $1000.00 so i want to know, what would you do? cash flow is low right now so putting $1000 into a diff is not an option?
any ideas?

 

I would go with the 9". Look around for a used 9" pumpkin with trac-loc, when funds build up, rebuild pumpkin.

What gear ratio you looking at?

 

I would go with the 9", parts are cheaper. Plus you can get a trac-lok at any junkyard, to find a 8" trac-lok it takes a miracle. And the aftermarket ones are twice as much as they are for a 9".....

 

i dont know. it old and seized. well, not seized but when i turn the yoke (takes considerable force) it sounds all crunchy. i cant get the other axle to turn. there are no junkyards anywhere near here. (small town, none for an hour drive away, and the yards don't know what they have.)

 

what trucks / vans should i be looking at?

 

Sorry, I meant what gears are on your wish list?

 

Take the time, to pull the 9" apart, and see whats going on.

 

Im guessing you have a 28 spline rear end? If so the 28 spline T-L can be found in early half ton trucks, 66-77 broncos and of course the cars like granada, monarch, versailles, galaxie torino also the other Big Ford cars.

 

If you have a 31 spline then your best bet is 72-early 80s trucks, i dont know anything about the vans though. I would imagine it wasnt a popular option in those, but it never hurts to check.

 

I now must respond in shame. Although I believe I still have some worth in this world, I realize what I'm about to say will seriously affect my usefulness in most people's eyes. Are you ready? Here it is. Because junkyards around here will not let you use a jack to life up a car I would need to identify a true-track without being able to turn the tires. The problem is, I don't know how to identify what one looks like verses a standard one wheel drive differential. any pictures?
Yours with shame,
Peter

 

there should be a tag on one of the studs that holds the third member into the housing. on that tag will be two lines of numbers and leters. it will be very dirty and possibly rusty. clean the tag off as best as possible to read it. on the second line there first number is usually under the nut. it will say the ration right there. if it has a limited slip there will be a L between the first number and last two numbers. it will look like this for a limited slip 3L50 a open will be 3 50.

on ebay there is someone who sells 9" third members with what ever ratio you want and a limited slip. im not sure what they sell them for but i seem to rember them being around 500.

 

The junkyards here are the same. They dont let you bring in jacks. Usually theyll already have the vehicle lifted though(if not i usually just find a jack inside one of the trucks and use it. Be very carefull though). Bryant already told you how to tell by the tag, BUT most of the time its long gone. So put the transmission into neutral then turn a tire, if they both turn the same way its a trac loc. If they turn opposite directions its an open. I`ll get you pics right now off how to tell once its removed.

 

There is one option that does work for a while, we did it to a friends mustang and it did pretty good. Take the diff apart and find some washers/shims that will fit between the side gears and the diff housing. You want to get it so the spider gears are snug but not bound. It's not near the same as a tracloc but it does work to get both wheels spinning for well under $50.

 

the best part of that assembly might be the housing. you'll have to check but i think some of those '57, '58, etc were some of the narrowest ever made which is what you'll need for the maverick. i might even bolt up, that is the spring perches are in the right spot. narrowing a housing, if done right with the correct jigs can be expensive. your probably gonna have to buy a new 3rd member anyway but there easy to find compared to the correct width housing.frankhttp://www.fordification.com/bumpwiki/index.php?title=Rear_Axle_Assembly_Identification_-_Ford_Productshttp://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm

 

Heres a picture of the carrier on a factory trak-loc. You will notice the bolts are recessed and are 5/8ths.