Having gone through the same dilema, I suggest addressing your's with a 'systems' approach.

Meaning, the way to determine the optimum components for your car is to talk with a trusted 'hot-rod' expert informing him of all your current specs and be prepared to answer to the following questions:

1) How much money do you want to spend (HUGE factor #1)?
2) How quick do you want to go (do you want just red-light to red-light quickness or 1/8th mile drag or 1/4 mile drags consistantly)?
3) Do you 'really' want quickness (1/8th or 1/4 mile)? or -
4) do you want top end speed (130+ mph)? (please say 'no' here)
5) What is your current stall speed of your converter?
6) What is the weight of your car?
7) Would you consider buying higher stall converter (say 2500 - 3500)?
8) Do you EVER intend on running Nitrous and/or blower (determines which intake to use among other things)?
9) What gear ratios do you have in the tranny now (helps determine cam, converter, other)?
10) What gear ratios to you have in the rear end (same)?
11) What traction enhancements have you done or are willing to do)?
12) What size tires will you be running?
13) Will you be running the car on both street AND strip?

The answers to all these questions will determine what components you should put on/in your car - even at this early stage.

Desktop Dyno 2000 is a great desktop program that allows you (typically 'them')to choose the right combination of carb, heads, and cam. I can burn you a cd if you'd like and shoot it to you. I think you'll begin to appreciate more of what I'm preaching about.

Still, unless you have a clear plan of exactly 'what' it is you want to obtain, you could easily spend money on something you're going to replace 3 months later because the new part will give you that 'extra edge' (like adding nitrous, blower, gears, tires, converter, etc).

Summit 'does make some good package deals. They will (should) ask you at least some of the questions above to arrive at a 'system' for your applicaton (they will match the cam, heads and carb with the converter's stall (both actual and flash), your expected h.p., torque, roll-out, gears, etc., etc.).

Once you've been bitten by the horse power bug, you ALWAYS want to go a 'little bit' faster...

I hope I haven't discouraged you because it is an absolute BLAST to leave the F bodies in the rear-view!

I'm just relating what I went through when I went from a 225 h.p. 5.0 Litre to a 600 h.p. 347 c.i. (stroked the 5.0 and added a 200 h.p. shot Nitrous).

I went from an 8.8 @ 78 mph to a 7.1 @ 99 mph in the 1/8th - all for the low low cost of about $8,000.00 (had to add roll-cage, strengthen rear-end, unibody, new tranny,$900 converter, new rear, spool, drag slicks, on and on and on an on....)

One more thing (then I'll go take a valium to chill out), if you're alredy going to have the engine down to the pistons and crank, do yourself a favor and rebuild the engine. Better yet, look for a race-prepped long block already and use THAT one instead of re-working yours. They're out there for about 1/2 of what someone like you and I will have put into it....if you have the patience.

All it takes is alittle time and a LOT of money!

Best of Luck,