new cam swap and maverick is running hot please help

I did a cam swap in the 70 maverick ,replaced the water pump,therm.and camshaft was finally running today and trying to break cam in but had to shut car off got way to hot ,pulled thermostat checked it out and its doing its job what can be wrong ,never had problems over heating before?

 

did you have enough water in it?
what was the timing set at?
if the timing is not advanced enough it will run hot.

 

it has plenty of water ,I put the timing mark on zero and checked to see if #1 piston was all the way up it seem to be ,so I dropped the distributor in ,wired it.i start it up and run for about 5 minutes and that's all it take to be at 230 degrees,i tried to google the best way to burp the system and what tried was jacking the front in up as far as my floor jack would go I took the heat temp loose from intake and poured more water into the radiator to try and flush any water bubbles out,didnt seem to work ,I even loosened it back up while running to seep out some water hoping bubbles might come out made no difference

 

This will sound insulting but was the thermostat installed pointing in the proper direction?

 

did you use a timing light?

 

if you didnt use a timing light then thats definitely your prolbem. when i do a cam break in, ill start the motor, turn the rpms up to 1500-2000 then set the timing to 30 degrees. if you get the timing wrong it will get hot like you describe.

 

I don't have a timing light

 

time to get one.

 

I finally got the maverick to stop running hot!i replaced the clutch fan with a flex fan I had laying around,i burped the system again and also moved the timing a tad but I think I had the timing reall close the flex fan rreally fixed it,now I have another problem car is missing reall bad now im afraid I might have let the cam go flat,having to deal with this heating problem starting the car 5 minutes at a time , I did everything I thought I should do before starting it I added assembly lube to cam lobes and lifters ,I added lucas break end additive..so do yall think I ruined the cam it was a summit brand cam sum-k3600 th eknock off of the edelbrock performer-plus cam

 

also forgot I had the rpms up around 1,800-2,000 when trying to break it in

 

double check the spark plug wires for the firing order. they are easy to get 2 or more mixed up when your chasing problems. if thats not it, you can pull a valve cover and crank the motor over and see if any of the rocker arms are not moving as much as the rest. that will show you if you wiped the cam. what oil were you using to brake in the motor with?

 

A worn cam lobe won`t make one miss,you have another problem,just keep digging I`m sure it is something simple.

 

after I changed the fan to the flex fan and put a shroud on and started it up it ran rough but I idled it up anyways and tried the break-in process once again this time it ran around 190 for 18 mintues somewhere during this time it smoothed back out and I did a test drive and ran fine came home shut it off a,hit the switch and fired up running smooth.this morning I woke up went to the shop tried to fire it up and it ran so rough it would go dead unless I kept my foot on the throttle,,i have a cheap set of accel plug wires I just put on the car I wonder if they could have a bad wire or 2,could my plugs be fouled ?there isn't any knocking or ticking sounds coming from the engine,i just never had a engine with a bad cam lobe so didn't really know what to expect

 

Bryant I used rotella oil 15w40 and the lukas break in additive

 

You may have melted a plug wire boot while breaking in the cam with retarded timing. I did this back in the day, hot header tube melted plug boot and had arcing causing a misfire.