Power Steering - To Repair Or Delete?

All - looking for some input. I have a ‘72 302 with power steering. Recently, power steering has been cutting out after 30-40 minutes into a drive, with the last few times I’ve started it up, no power steering from the get go.

Before going through the trial and error of figuring out and solving the issue - is it the pump, valve, cylinder…. Etc - what is everyone’s take on the manual steering adapter that is out there (link below)? The Maverick is a light car, so I would assume turning isn’t terrible, plus it makes the vehicle more simple to maintain over time - and less possibilities for leaks under the car.

Any and all input is welcome - which includes fixing what I have to maintain it’s originality. Thanks.

https://www.parts123.com/parts123/dyndetail.pta?acclink=0001018oAAARB

 

I would change the pump first before spending over $250 on a adapter. Do you have any leaks in the system?

I had a 75 Comet that come factory with a 250 in it. Had power steering. A 200 was dropped in. I Jerry rigged the power steering pump to fit the 200 (1966 Mustang engine) The pump was bad so I took the belt off. Drove it around like that for years and what happened?

The steering gear box went out just as I made it home. I'm lucky to be alive. If it would have went out while I was on the freeway doing 70 mph I would be dead.

Thank God!

If you want manual steering. Buy the manual gear box and centerlink. Screw the adapter. JMHO

 

If you are OK with the extra steering effort, the P/S valve eliminator is in use by thousands of Mustang owners. You need to ditch the original steering valve as they have been known to eject the ball stud, resulting in complete loss of steering. At $157 adapters are cheap enough.

https://www.topflightautomotive.com...4vOEMOnV80LiTu4MCqk9Q1PZQDy6V93RoCoF4QAvD_BwE

Myself, I've totally rebuilt my Comet P/S, steering linkage & front suspension. Also added factory power steering to both of my Fairlanes and gave each total frontend rebuilds. Each car sucked up approx $700/$800 worth of parts. I had used P/S systems on hand or cost would have been greater.

 

I added power steering from parts I got at the junkyard. After 30 years with no power steering, it is nice to have. There is not much to these components and can be easily rebuilt.

Kits and Parts Index (stangerssite.com)

Micah

 

https://opentrackerracing.com/shop/power-steering-manual-steering-adapter-1967-1970-mustang/
David

 

The one thing that's never been rebuilt on my Maverick is the power steering, and it needs it.
It still works good but it's been leaking for 35 years! And I keep putting it off.
What I really want is rack & pinion, but don't wanna spend $2500 for the RRS from Australia.
I have a rebuild kit somewhere for the control valve, but I should replace the power ram too.
One of these days...

 

Nuffin to it... If it's never been rebuilt, probably leaking for 40+ years. Good idea to replace the copper sleeve on left that retains the ball stud. It's usually in some deluxe kits.

There's only 6 or 8 parts for ram, mainly the shaft seals, scraper and retainers.(one on top of other). They can be aggerating to remove, a pick or small screw usually does the trick.

 

This is all great input - let’s say I keep the P/S - is the best order to getting it back in working order the following?

1. Replace Pump, then if there is still an issue,
2. Rebuild the cylinder/ram, then if there is still an issue,
3. Rebuild the valve

I’m assuming I replace all or some of the lines at some point during this process. Are any more important than others?

Finally, Are the kits that are sold to rebuild the cylinder/ram and the valve pretty straight forward with instructions?

Thanks!

 

Most of the time instructions are copies are 17 generations old view from shop manual. I can copy everything in the shop manual.

I scanned this, a pict of pages will probably be better.

 

Agrrrh board is being crappy... Was right-side up when uploaded.

I'd probably replace hoses first, seen couple cases that pinched caused interminant operation. Be careful to correctly connect hoses from cylinder to valve. System goes nuts if they are crossed.

 

Keep the power steering. If you don't want to rebuild it all yourself, remove all the components and send them in to this place for a rebuild. They have fast turn around, and they KNOW Ford power steering systems. They have done several of my cars....no issues.

 

I've tried different fluids, yet to see any difference. Viscosity differs only slightly between brands(SAE specifies a certain range for any given fluid/oil).

Some years back I did a PDS(product data sheet) search on several popular brands. Seems Shell was the thickest. I have Amalie in my Fairlane & Comet. I believe the Cobra has Motorcraft.

 

I completely rebuilt my system, only then to remove for (old style) crites headers. I'd say keep it. Having previously had p/s on the car, manual steering is a bit of a nuisance. Rebuild parts are cheap, don't think you'd be saving much, especially if you change to a manual gearbox (different gear ratio, easier to turn).

 

Problem with manual steer boxes is they are pitifully slow & most are now worn out.

The P/S boxes generally led a much easier life, rarely endured the full brunt of force required to move the wheels.

In 1991 I installed the quicker box on my Cobra anticipating a P/S install. That took 26 years but in '17 I finally did the deed. No, I didn't procrastinate. Just wanted to wait till manual system was fully worn out & it was. Needed control arms, tie rods, idler arm, the whole shebangs.,

 

Follow up - we swapped out a new power steering pump (Lares), all new hoses (5 total hoses, but the pressure line is 2 hoses that you connect together), and filled up with Type F . Took a weekend to complete (now that I’ve done it maybe a day of work). IMHO replacing the hoses was the most frustrating part (lying on my back). I did disconnect the return a day or so before to let it drain as much as possible, which helped reduce the dripping when removing the old pump as well as when working underneath.

Now she’s turning great! Thanks for all the input, I’ll stop back in here if I need to end up doing the ram or the valve.