Had to leave town for Hurry-cane Rita, so didn't get to weld my plates in this weekend. I leave for Guam this Sunday for work for 2 weeks, then a long weekend in Hawaii before I come home. (My job is not usually this cool ) So, it will be late October before I get to weld the towers up, put on my new GT40Ps, new Hooker headers, and I got my Ported Torker 289 in today. Men (and women)...I am amped!!! But first, I must tackle some waves in Guam and North and South Shore Hawaii. Good thing is by late October, The weather will have cooled down enough that I can weld without sweating my balls...er, butt off! Can't wait to hit the track again. Just to see what kind of improvements my new parts will give me.
Tower cut update I got the welder today, and it ended up using just a little over 2 lbs of wire. I used a Lincoln Weld-Pak 100, and having used regular old stick welding in the past, this was a new experience, until I figured it out. I used probably 1/4 pound on scrap metal just to get the feel for it, before I started on the towers. That wire was .035 flux-core. Just an up date in case someone ever comes back to this thread again and wishes to know what the answers were to some of those questions.
I had a Weld-Pac 100 for many years. I converted mine to gas (highly recommended). It was a great welder. I put my Sprint together with it and restored a 67 rust bucket mustang convertible with it.
Here is what they ended up looking like... I am happy, except that I touched the paint before it dried in a couple of places. Sure is easier doing work on headers and plugs...
Sorry OLD thread- but this looks perfect! Did you basically just take about an inch off all the way up? I was wondering what to do where the rails come up but obviously you don't go any lower than them when doing the chop. My car is a bare shell and I'm a fabricator so wanted to do this to make more room around the engine incase I go twin turbo in the future!
