302 I was referring to the short block! It was a used short block with no mods! Although, the 5.0 HO did have forged pistons during part of the 5.0 production run. Does anyone still have the article to determine what mods were done, other than bolting on the items listed?
Car Craft article That "400 HP with a stock cam" article is where I am planning to go with my Grabber and the $62.99 5.0 I just bought (at least that is the idea right now!). Heck, the engine I bought is even out of a 1991 Mustang, just like the article. I have been saving the original magazine since before I bought the Maverick. If all else fails, I can use the AFR heads on my 1990 LX Mustang daily driver sometime in the future. I do want the version of the heads with the stud mounted rockers though, kind of gives more options later for stiffer springs/bigger cams. Anybody have any thoughts on using one of the milder Comp Cams Extreme Energy cams instead of the stocker with all else in the article being the same? Am I just pushing the powerband up the RPM scale and losing too much lower end torque and spoiling the recipe for a good AFR165cc based engine, or is it a good idea in a lightweight car like the Maverick and the power gain will outweigh the torque loss? The car has a C-4 and will have a roughly 2500 RPM converter. Any gear ratio suggestions for this combo and 25 to 26" tires?
i have a dual pattern crane cam in my 302 right now and like it. puts about 10 deg more duration on the exhaust side. i just started with a 70,000 mile 1974 302, put $15 rings in it (and fresh bearings), took the bumps out of the stock small valve heads, 1 12 inch headers with exhaust to the rear axle, 1960's intake with a holley 600cfm vac carb (with secondaries unhooked). 4.11 gears with a 3000 stall 10" converter. i'm down to a 14.31@93 mph shifting at 5500rpm. open pipes, some timing and an up-to-date intake would probably get it into the 13's, but want to stay above 14.00. gears are a little steep for the interstate, but other than that its a fun car. these engines really like rear end gear. try around a 3.73 and see how that works for you. the trick is to have short tires for the track and tall ones for the road, but cant get much more than a 27.5 inch tire under it due to tight fender in front and behind the rear tire. have fun
Roller cams can be expensive... if you can juice that one a bit, along with high flowing heads... you will save some dough on a new cam. I think those HRs spin pretty high as is. Put some 1.7 rockers on there. On the heads: The Mavericks are so light and easy to wind up by my experience that you don't need to worry excessively about torque. That converter, paired with 3.55 or better gears will rev quickly under load. I wouldn't hesitate to use 165s, or even 185s as long as you don't overcarb and be mindful of the gear ratio. High flowing heads don't need as much cam to operate well. You could use stock HR with 1.7s, 185s, mild single plane intake, good LT headers, your stall, and 3.55-4.11 gears... You wouldn't get traction. So why worry about more torque and LESS traction because of it? Dave
What intake? Why do you not use secondarys? Are you a long time Catonsville resident? Just curious, I went to Catonsville High, class of 87. Dave
302 thanks maverick-matt! still seems like a good deal for that kind of power. It could probably be done for less than shown in the article.
how about this weiand intake 166.00 head bolts,gaskets 120.00 demon carb 259.00 good set of long tube headers 250.00 instead of 400.00 rockers go with the new cam below 140.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33614&item=7932258617&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW instead of AFR heads go with pro topline that likely flow very similar 500-600, see below http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33617&item=7932682005&rd=1 1435.00 plus 2nd71Grabber's 62.99 short block maybe a new dr timing chain 40.00 = 1537.99 for a motor that will be pretty stout! I think you could still shave some costs with used intakes, carbs and possibly reusing the head bolts
I can tell ya from experience if you build from scratch a 400+ hp motor that can run on pump gas AND is bulletproof (internally balanced with forged crank) it can easily cost 6 grand. It all depends on what you want. I wanted to run mid 7's in the 1/8th and drive 660 miles at 70 mph to the roundup
How come so much for the headers and rockers? Headers can be had for half that and dirt cheap used. Rockers are also in the 'half that' catagory. Dave
for ratio411 - moved here in 1987. its an old shelby manifold used on the gt 350 mustangs. has a 4 hole top which helps bottom a little. disconnected secondaries because they were opening right at the shift point. car doesn't nose over from lack of air and is much more consistant.
Do any one know if the stock 302 will hold a CompCam XE268 or XE274, Hooker headers, AFR 165 heads, Stealth intake & 650 carb? The whole engine is stock right now. Would it be better to by a mustang HO motor from Ford Racing. They cost more.
Those parts would work on a stock short block... you just have a few things to consider: How worn is your short block? (Putting high dollar parts on a worn block/rings is like polishing a turd.) What year and piston type? (You don't want too low compression, or too high without forged pistons.) How worn are your bearings? (If your rings are good, you will make good power with your added parts, but you don't want a bearing to spin.) Also, stock rod bolts are the weak spot in SBFs, so you add too much crazy power, you have to worry about throwing a rod due to bolt failure. There is a limit to how much power you want to throw at a stock short block, even if it is in excellent shape. That is the long answer... short answer... Yes. Dave
What about if I don't know what is good & what is not good...lol...I know when I bought it from Ark., I drove it home to Tenn. & got a speeding ticket on the way home...lol...It does go if your have a long enough stretch. So basicly start over, Right!
If you don't know, or know how to check... then you shouldn't throw expensive parts on there. Rather than risk it, start over or get someone who knows (and you trust) check things out. Good luck Dave
