Keep us posted! Would like to hear all the details on what pistons you choose to get more compression and whether or not you're going to look for a roller cam block. M.D.
Hey Val, That motor does look like a fair deal, not great and not bad. The advice above about building your own motor is sound but not as simple as it sounds for someone who has never built a motor before. If you go this rout get a how to build a ford motor book. Follow the book word for word and when you get to the end you will have a great motor. When buying used aluminum heads, its a really good idea to either plan to have them rebuilt (have that cost factored into how much you pay) or to have the sell agree to let you have your engine machinist check them out. Usually used aluminum heads need new valve guides. I dont know of any really good engine shops in north county that I can recommend but in Santee is Total performance and I can get the cylinder head guy to inspect them on the side for cheap if you need. As for that motor, you say its a b cam with solid rocker arms. you have some terminology mixed up there. The b cam will be a hydraulic roller cam, and rocker arms are never "solid". they can stock stamped, or roller. the roller rockers can be aluminum or steel. $1000 is a really good price for swapping out your motor and transferring the parts from the old one to the new one. One big thing to watch out for is your flywheel. I believe you got the billet steel flywheel with bolt on weights. your 69 motor will the the 28oz imbalance and the newer roller cam motor will be 50oz imbalance. that means you will need to change the weight on your flywheel to the bigger weight that came with it and you will also need a 50oz balancer. Again thats a lot of work for a shop to do for $1000. Is the shop Manning motorsports? If so they are good. they have been around for a long time.
