Your going to have to get a set of peddles out of a mav or comet to guaranty they match... There out there... As for hydraulic set ups Look at either modern driveline or rosehill performance they both have kits... I went with rosehill performance for my set up...
i have a shop and we do the conversions for customers. i can put any type of pad shape on that you want. the clutch pedal in the pic has the stock pad shape the brake pedal can be cut to the same shape. then you can get the replacement rubber covers to make it all look stock. the clutch pedal has to sit a little higher than the brake pedal due to the required travel. that is standard on most clutch set ups. the only way to get them at the same height would be to put a longer push rod into the brake master cylinder.
And if I might add, if you do add a longer pushrod on the brake MC, make sure it won't be keeping the brakes applied slightly, ask me how I know!
Okay, if I quash my OCD enough to accept that the clutch pedal will just be higher, will it be so high as to hinder my learning heel-toe eventually? (I'd really like to autocross this thing when I put a stick in it.)
I don't have such a problem, but I wear a size 14eee, don't have a problem walking in sand or snow either!
Cool! Now it's just a matter of finding the darn pedals for less than an arm and a leg. I need both of both of those to drive it after they're in, after all.
With the Modern kit, the pedal height is adjustable. Post in the "wanted" section, someone will have one.
My kit has adjustable pedal height. My method of master cylinder mounting is much simpler than the modern kit and will cost substantially less. It also locates the master cylinder closer to the firewall. I will offer components separately or grouped together. In any of these hydraulic kits the clutch pedal will need 9 inches of travel to have proper travel.
I have Modern Driveline's kit and while mods have to be done to the lower steering column clamp to clear their reinforcement plate. I do like the idea of that plate to beef up the thin sheet metal on the firewall. Also with his linkage system allows for less pedal travel to engage/disengage clutch. I am using Ram's Hydraulic T/O bearing on my Toploader 4 speed, rather than McLeod's, which I also used in the late 80's....... Anyways, my thumbs up to both of you for your designs to eliminate the old mechanical 2 piece equalizer arm/linkage system! Let us know when you have your kit ready and price.....
Yeah, if you have a kit and installation instructions, I'd love to support you. I had it in my head that you wanted me to drive to San Diego. I love it there, but it's a bit far for a Sunday drive!
Awesome. Yeah, I'm in cash saving/browsing/pricing mode right now, so I'm not in a terrible hurry, though if your kit included a pedal, shaft, and new pedal pads (to replace the one on the brake that would end up too big,) to modify my existing box, I'll wait for it as long as it takes.
With the help of Mr. Dave Yip, I think I figured out what system I'm going to go with! Thanks everybody for all the help and advice.
I was pretty successful by modifying the stock pedal assembly. I read the Car Craft article first then kinda went my own direction. Only things I had to obtain was a fox body pedal assembly and cable set. E-bay for pedal (about $75, and Steeda for the cable/quadrant kit.) All said pedals look like they belong there and seems to work just fine.
