you know.. if you have low blinker fluid, that could cause the wires in the turn signals to short out and cause the battery to drain
yeah, just head down to jiffy lube and pay the $19.99 to get your fluids toped off, and make sure they do the blinkers. that should solve your problem im dealing with a simular prob in my comet where i either have a drain or the alt isnt charging the bat. my solonoid, volt regulator, cables and alternater are new yet the batery will die after riding for a few hours. i think its a drain because i can shut it off but when i go to start it the next day im just getting a clicking sound. about the door buzzer, on my maverick it was right behind the radio, red and white plastic piece with a few wires comming from it. i pulled the one in the same location on my comet, but im getting another buzzing sound from the glove box area as someone else mentioned.
keep the Ideas coming fellas one of them is going to be right and I know you want to be the one that says I told you that was what the problem was. So far the buzzer or the altenator diode is the most logical choice. Will know if it was the buzzer tomorrow and if it's not that I will know if it is the altenator this weekend.
when i installed my new motor i got this one, it came on when the switch was turned to the on position. ...unpluged the buzzer... ... ...
Yeah, my buzzer worked just fine. But when you closed the door, it didn't stop vibrating. Even with the key out, you could feel it vibrating, just not enough to make any noise. I was happy to cut it out, since at that time, I spent more time with the doors open and working under the dash or on the seats, and hated that sound. If nothing else, you are deleting that annoying buzz, and hopefully fix the drain. If not, you aren't any worse off than you are now...
first get a good digital multimeter and set it for amperage and remove the ground lead stick on one of the meter leads on the battery terminal and the other on the loose ground terminal. Now with the key off check what kind of amperage draw you have and get some help, someone to watch the meter and start unplugging fuses until you find your culprit all items have to go through the fuse box unless they have been added on by you in which case you should try to wire everything into the fuse box so that when you turn the key off all accessaries are off also. This method works great I personally use this method on new vehicles to find batteries that go dead over night. You can also opt to install a shut off switch that you turn off at the end of the day or whenever your done driving you car for day.
well I replaced the Altenator and the selenoid so that's the entire charging system, Battery, battery cables, selenoid, voltage regulator, and altenator. Process of elimination is rolling along. At least these cars are pretty inexpensive to work on. I replaced all those parts and still have only around $75 into it and I haven't even taken the old Altenator back for my core refund yet. Might just keep the old one and clean it up and put it on the shelf. Since the core is only $10 it's kind of like buying a spare alt for $10. Anyway last night she charged right up, sat for 1-1/2 hours and started with no problem...but, you guessed it, this morning when I went out she's d-e-a-d as a doornail. Guess I will start tonight or in the morning with an amp meter and pulling fuses. Hey Guys, cross your fingers for me that it isn't in the ignition switch or the steering column or something major like that. Pray for me that it is something simple...OK?
pray pray pray this is what you need to do.. actually easier to have someone hold the leads on the battery, while you are pulling fuses.. check battery with everyhting off.. pull fuse.. is there a drop.. no.. pull the next fuse continue till done if you see a drop in the voltage... you found the circuit.. now.. determine what that circuit feeds. make a drawing of your fuse box... and label each fuse as to what size fuse it was, and if there are any markings as to what that fuse feeds. then you will be able to post the drawing on here, and we will know exactly what you are talking about and can pin point the circuit, if you dont know good luck
I have a picture of the fuse box labeling all the items each fuse is used for... Need me to post it? It also tells which size fuse to use in each slot.
appreciate the offer, I bought the owners manual from ebay awhile back when I bought the car and it has the fuse box and layout in the manual. My guess is one that has already been stated here. I am going to guess that it is going to be on the dome light circuit, even thought the light IS going off when the door closes and the Buzzer is now unhooked the plastic on the dome light is really brittle and I am going to take a wild gues and say that is the circuit that is going to be the problem. But I have been wrong before. Now if I take the negative lead off the battery and put the meter between the neg. batt terminal and the neg battery cable with my meter on amperes that should show me the amount of current flowing, right? Then I can pull fuses until the current flow stops and I will know which circuit is the culprit, right? If all else fails I am going to do what I did on an old truck I had that was having a similar problem. I will just put a battery disconnect switch in, that will disconnect the positive terminal of the battery and flip the switch when I turn the car off. But I am supposing that since there are only a handful of fuses in a Maverick that I should be able to isolate the problem circuit relatively quickly. Then the issue will be finding what on that circuit is the problem. Hopefully like I said earlier it won't be in the ignition switch or steering column or something complicated like that.
I did that with the meter, and found the drain that way, at least found the circuit. Verified it was corrected after I pulled out the buzzer. My dome light was brittle, too. Found a new one in HELP section at local auto parts store for $7.
Lucky Duck, I was really hoping that mine was going to be that buzzer because I wasn't having a problem until one day out of nowhere the buzzer started working. Had the car about a week and a half and the buzzer never sounded then all of the sudden one day it started buzzing and would work intermittent, then I started having the battery drain issue, but as we know I pulled the buzzer a few days back and the battery is still draining so that wasn't the problem in my car. I'll let you all know what I find out as soon as I figure it out (if I figure it out), I will post what it was so anyone in the future may be helped by the info.
OK guys, told you that I would let you know what the problem was when I figured it out and thank to my helper (my son Nick) we figured out what it was. I had Nick hold the meter between the neagtive battery cable and the negative terminal on the batter and it was reading between 3.5 and 4.0 amp with the door closed and everything off. started pulling fuses and wouldn't you know, when I got to the last fuse in the fuse box...NOT it was still pulling almost 4 amps with all the fuses out. So back under the hood. Unhooked the positive wire on the altenator and still almost 4 amps. unplugged the voltage regulator (you know that think that replaced the very first night) and you guessed it Dang bad voltage regulator (this is a brand new one from Advance auto). took it off and took it back and the clown at the store thought he was going to tell me that a brand new regulator with a one year warranty could be replaced because it had been "hooked up" and there was no way for him to test to see if it was bad. Well when I explained to him that I replaced the entire charging system with parts from his store and took all the fuses out of the fuse box and was still drawing current until I unplugged the regulato he gave a disgusted look and told the guy behind the counter to give me a replacement. Brought that one home, hooked her up. and check the current and Viola!!!!!! 0.0000 amp with the car off and door closed. 1 amp with the door open (1 bulb), 3 amps with my foot on the brake pedal (additional 2 brake light) and yep 0.000 with the car off and the doors closed. So for now I am pretty satisied that the problem is fixed, but will know for absolute sure tomorrow morning when I get up and start the car. Thanks to all you guys that offered suggestions and solutions and for the guy that PMed me and offered to let me call him at home for a trouble shooting session over the phone I thank you all and appreciate the help. My son is standing here telling me which smiley to use so he wants the one that looks like it is celibrating so here it is and Thanks again you guys are great. ooh yay oooh yay.
