sam03rc, Sorry to ask you all these questions but it is important. You are stating there was no vibration and the wan, wan was gone? What things had you done to the car prior to the test drive? In detail please! During the test drive, how far did you drive? How many turns did you make and when were they made? How fast did you drive? Again in detail please!
I have been fighting this same wan-wan-wan for years. After reading this, I am wondering if maybe the spool is where the issue is. Especially after you said it ran quiet until you TURNED AROUND which would put insane pressure on everything in the rear, causing something to shift in the gears. BUT!!! I also have both the rear end and engine pointing down. I am in the process of rotating the rear end so it points up, then the next step will be getting rid of the mini spool. BEFORE AFTER
After reading this, I am wondering if maybe the spool is where the issue is. Especially after you said it ran quiet until you TURNED AROUND which would put insane pressure on everything in the rear, causing something to shift in the gears. scooper77515, That is what I'm trying to get sam03r3 to consider. I'm of the belief there is possibly movement/shifting within the differential thus producing the wan, wan, wan moan and associated vibration. Could be the quality of the ring and pinion i.e. too much run-out ? Thanks for the videos. I've heard that wan, wan, wan many times before. I don't know how you drive your car in that condition. Must have a loud stereo, huh?
I don't drive it very often BECAUSE of this noise. It vibes so much I know it must be hard on transmission, u-joints, engine, and my ears and sanity. Some of mine is driveline angle. Engine is around 5 degrees down, and pinion is another 2 degrees down for negative 7 degrees angle. I will be putting a 4 degree shim in, hopefully this week, if the weather cooperates, giving me a more tolerable negative 3 degrees. Then I will swap out the mini spool for a tru-trac, and hopefully quieter and smoother riding.
Might want to put in a new transmission mount too, if you haven't already . If I recall, the engine is usually only about 2 degrees down.
Here is the experience I had with the "Wan-Wan" sound. Actually it was a more of a "womp-womp" sound. I only notice the sound on a long straight high-speed stretch. It was exactly that...a sound and nothing else. I had a womp-womp coming from my Maverick with a 2.79 rearend. When I replaced it with a 3.00 the sound was still there. Same thing happen when I went with a 3.40 gear. I notice the rubber on the inertia ring on the yoke looked like it was on it's last leg so I busted the ring off the yoke with a BFH. One good hit with the hammer the ring split in two. After a test drive I notice the womp-womp sound was gone. If you happen to have an inertia ring on your driveshaft this could be what you're hearing too. Like I said...I heard this sound...I didn't feel nothing
All I did to the car was install the driveshaft and made a left turn out of my driveway and then a left onto the hwy, drove straight at 60mph for idk 6 miles then made 2 left turns and a right turn about 10mph then back to 60mph and the vibration was back. There really isn't a sound its very faint but thats the best way to describe the vibration how it comes and goes but now its faster. Now today I checked everything, nice.and tight, still have a leak from the rear seal on the trans. I placed the rear on jack stands and watched the wheels and I dont see any signs or bent axle or of a wheel out of round. Ran It up to the 60mph(3000rpm) and vibration is there but not as bad as on the road would save maybe 20% less, but there if I left off the gas and wheels still turning at 60 no vibrations. And if I rev to 3000 rpm in Neutral no vibrations(except the motor). Im not ruling out the rear and couple be the spool not even sure what brand it is bought it a while ago in high school, but I read somewhere (might be on here) I could take the yoke off the shaft place it in the transmission and hold it at said speed and see if its in the transmission or the rearend. But would the yoke stay in place and not fly out? I do need to still measure the angles on everything and double check that.
how tight did you tighten the u joint straps to the diff yoke? how easy do the u joints rotate in the drive shaft?
Don't try running it with just the slip yoke. The fluid pressure in the transmission will force it out. If the seal is leaking, then you've either got a worn yoke and/or worn tailshaft bushing. Time to look at both those parts. When you ran it on the stands, where did you place the stands ? Under the axle, or supporting the body, letting the axle hang loose ?
The ujoint straps are good and tight, and the ujoints are new maybe a thousand miles on them. Placed the stands under the axle. Does anyone have a write up on replacement of the tailshaft bushing?
I borrowed a bushing removal tool from my Transmission Guy. you can remove the tailshaft housing and take it to a shop and have them replace it, take the new bushing with you. I have also just knocked the old bushing further in with the new bushing...
Tip for the tailshaft bushing if you do it yourself...A (I believe 1.5") COPPER pipe fit's in the tailshaft perfectly, and will not damage the old bushing because copper is softer than brass. Simply tap the old one out, and gently tap the new one in. Make sure the new one is in the same position as the old (Flush with the back section of the tailshaft, I'll include a picture) Just use care tapping it in, it's not hard to do at all. FYI the picture is of a T5 tailshaft, but the theory is the same. Also carefully inspect the yoke...mine was completely torn up from years of leaking and the bushing being destroyed If you don't want to take the tailshaft out many have done what Frank said, and simply tapped in the new bushing, leaving the old one still in the tailshaft
this could be your problem. if the u joint straps are over tightened they will distort the cap and pinch the rollers. the torque on the nuts is supposed to be around 15 inch lbs. the way i do the straps is to put a drop of blue loctite on the threads then run the nuts down with lock washers. then i hold the drive shaft tube in one hand and tighten the nut with a small 1/4" ratchet. this will get you close to the correct torque.
