Edelbrock Heads, I did not know

I agree. I owned 2 street cars with solids in the 70's. When hydraulic rollers came around, I never looked back. The only reason I would consider a solid lifter cam is if I were planning to buzz it to 7 grand on a regular basis.

 

Things are better than they have ever been when comparing power levels between the two but according to most of the top builders.. and just like the old days except everything is roller now.. more serious motors should use solids.. and dual purpose motors should use hydro's. Preferably with short travel lifters to reduce some of the inevitable rpm loss.

But.. all this is kinda moot with puny heads like these though anyways. OP will be lucky to flow past .600 even with extensive port work. Just not enough material to work with for matching up to a big boy cam.

Any way you go here.. good(lightweight) lifters can easily exceed 3 times the cost of the cam itself. If you wanna play.. you gotta pay.

 

Yes but lets turn those rpm on up to 7500+ and see what happens, also according to my source that bit about having to adjust them all the time is pooh, quote:"unless your twisting it to 7500-8000 rpm every weekend adjustment on solids should be needed no more that 2-3 times a year............this build is very different than what has been discussed prior, if we were still talking about a build like what I'm sure your referring to the hydraulic would be the choice no doubt...however it ain't

 

your onto the idea

 

again, this is for a 16 year old..."planning to buzz it to 7 grand on a regular basis."...

 

what's the plan to hook this beast to the ground?

 

I was trying to figure out what kinda cam I had in my motor. Figured I could tell by vacuum pressure. Then I ran across a guy that said maybe with a flat cam, but since I have a roller it would be hard to tell that way because of the agressive ramps on the roller cams, so I guess I'm no closer to figuring out what is actually in the motor now can wise...

 

"vacuum pressure"?
You can figure out the cam specs with a degree wheel and a dial indicator.

 

I'll have to look that up I guess. No idea what those two things are.

 

If you don't know what these things are -- don't worry abt what cam you have -- drive and enjoy. If you do a rebuild in the future you will have the option of knowing all those things.

 

Yes, things have changed as things do, the Edelbrock heads are already sold, AFR 195 Renegades are currently on the table

 

I hope Sam has lots of money for gasoline.

 

It's called get a job!

 

Just now was reading back through some threads and I apologize for no response, I actually didn't see your question.......as for the moment all we know is he is going to run an AOD built and bullit proofed, possibly reverse valve body with trans brake and looking at a Moser 8.8 housing with axles and diff, very cost effective and the price is right, can get the whole set up new for less than piecing together a 9" and it's good for 700ft. lbs. of torque.....as for rubber we are a ways off, cross that bridge when we get there

 

Sounds like it is going to spend a lot of time at the strip.