for the trans suggestions. put a trans-go shift kit in along with a 2600ish coan converter and a nice trans cooler for youre c4 also if youre doing anything like a new cam, perhaps roller rockers and 600$$ or so on a nice street port job ;-)
Holley 500s use more gas.The 350 holley,or like Paul says a carb from an earlier motor will do you better.Also some cheap tips; tune up new plug wires new plugs-check the gap before you put 'em in advance your timing a bit synthetic oil-not real cheap but if you're gonna change oil anyway it frees up a teeny bit of power moderately priced upgrades; gear swap-I like 3.55s.Look around for v6 Pintos/Mustang twos for cheap 3.40-3.55 gears. dual exhaust-a good 2.25" system will be fine for stock on up to 350-400 hp. headers-not really needed if you're not gonna do any head work IMO.Sound good though. 4 barrel carb/intake-used performers can be had off evilbay for $100 or less,a 600 holley can be found for about the same or less.Just keep your eyes/ears peeled swap over to electronic ignition-the factory "Duraspark" works well,rob it all off of another 302 powered,carbed vehicle.Don't drop big bucks on MSD stuff for a mild street car,you'll never feel the difference(for the $$)over the factory stuff. K&N filter-not a huge power maker,but it'll last 4 ever with regular cleanings. more expensive stuff; cam swap-stay mild unless you like the rumpitty sound or.... stall converter-you'll need a stall so it'll idle in gear at a redlight.An 1800-2500 stall works well,but with stock 2.79 or 3.00 gears can lead to a smoked tranny if you do lots of around town low speed driving. head work-gasket matching(porting out) the exhaust side does wonders on small block fords. These are just my opinions based on the assumption that you have little cash/and/or little knowledge of cars.Opinions are like....well,everybodys got one.I would do the following in order-full tune up-gear swap-exhaust-carb/intake.Beyond that starts the more serious(read-more expensive)stuff.Have fun.
would it be better to go with a better 2 barral or get the intake and a 4 barral??? THAT is the question
4 barrel will usualy be better then a two barrel in both aspects of economy and performance...its just up to youre right how well you distribute the two lol
Which one is the best ? I'm not planning for a dragracer, but rather a car that can function as a swift ride both in the city/highway and as a daily driver if needed. and if I decide what i need to switch from 2 to 4 barrel http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/d...080457S.html?apwcid=P1135867996W43b3f85c7ab9e View attachment 31418
like i said a 4 barrel would most likely give you better mpg over a two barrel due to it having smaller primarey holes...and as long as you stay out of the secondaries... but if cash is a problem...just stick with the 2v setup if you have a lead foot stick with the 2barrel as flogging a 2v wont kill youre gas as quick as flogging a 4v lol
To switch from a 2bbl to a 4bbl you'll need a 4bbl carb/gasket and a 4bbl intake manifold,an oil change,antifreeze(the 302 intake is "wet",when you pull it some coolant will spill out into the lifter valley-into your oil)and an intake gasket set.
What do you guy think about this carb http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/994250044.html Holley 600 Near New - Electric Choke - Hear Run! - $175 (Elizabeth)Holley 600 Near New - Electric Choke - Hear Run! - $175 (Elizabeth)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holl...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories you can get something like this off of evilbay and just put a kit in it ( i would never run a used carb without a rebuild unless I know its complete history never know what crap is in it)
cant even see the motor in those pics with all the vac lines and wireing on it. should look alot beter once your done. keep up with the progress updates.
