he is looking at the #s...he isn't ...hearing/feeling...anything... when the #s fall, he's done. this is his job...let him do it... why don't you go in tell him you have... ...425..RWHP...400...RWT...5500...RPM...he can write this down, take your $$$s and save the wear and tear on his Dyno... ...:Handshake...
Dyno pulls definitely make you think twice(too late)about every nut/bolt and clearance figure you came up with when you put it together.It can make for some serious posterrior pucker.I enter them with some trepidation and leave with solid information.The data is why you dyno.You will do fine,go, enjoy it and learn something you cant learn any where else.Good luck.
Ahh Scott I won't bust your balls ( It seems Frank is doing a good job at it) The Dyno operators know their stuff and won't beat up your car for no reason.But if the numbers aren't what you expected don't sweat it.I have a friend who has a 396 68 Camaro that sounds like a 9 second car.He put it on a chassis dyno and it made a wopping 244 rwhp!! But in all reality it runs well 12.30's and will burn the tires off all day long.So just because the numbers aren't there doesn't mean you won't still have a blast with it. Hey you should set up a poll for rwhp guesses and the winner after the dyno day gets a big kiss from Anna!! J/K LOL Hope all goes well.
i cranked mine up after about 30 mins of run time. first run i shifted at 7000. thats with a mech roller cam. i agree with some of the other guys on this one, don't go over what your combination is making power at.
Have you guys seen the new SAE dyno test specs? It takes a lot longer to get the info that they want than just two pulls. The specs call for stepped pulls in five increments on four different ranges. All done with specific temp, pressure and humidity. As I understand it the process takes about five hours running on the dyno.
Some guy, who doesn't have a dime of his money in my car, probably isn't going to care quite as much as I do when he blows it up. "Opps, my bad" If I say don't rev it past 6,000 (not saying that I would, because I run my cars much harder then that, just speaking in relative terms), and it's still making power at 6,300, good, I know what it makes at where I'm personally comfortable revving it. My money is not wasted because I got to know what I wanted to know. If it makes another 15 horsepower at 6,600 RPM, it doesn't matter to me, because I'll never run it that hard. (*and I would want to look into getting the max power into a usable RPM range) Of course, I would also have at least a couple thousand miles on my engine before even thinking about running it like that. If you're comfortable letting some guy peg the crap out of your brand new engine, power to you. I'm not.
Just remember that it's a machine. Even though it might sound like it's going to just fly apart, it won't. Well, as long as you put decent rods and springs in it. There should be little to no uncertainty about how the engine will perform if built properly. Do you have a build sheet?
You can be pretty sure the Dyno guy doesn't want your busted motor on his test stand. Once that motor is broken in and the rings are seated, you should be able to run it up to redline all day long without trouble if it is built right. I wouldn't worry about the dyno guy so much. If you think your motor is put together right...flog it....
As far as i'm concerned 500 miles or 2000 miles if it's going to blow it's going to blow.Doesn't really matter how much mileage you put on it.And as far as RPM,All the same parts fly out weather it is 6000 or 8000.
Is your car an auto or stick? If it's a stick you should stay off the car dyno!!! There way to hard on the clutch
Something I like to do,,,cut oil filter and see my engine! My buddy did his,, scared to death to even start engine now!!!! You do get some metal, first start on new parts seems like a lot, but it's not.
So what happened to the good old days when hot rodders and racers went to the track, made a run, read the plugs, adjusted the carb or timing or plug gap or shift points, made another run, read the plugs, etc, etc, etc. Too damn many dyno queens running around these days.
I will be going to the track too I want to know as much about my motor as possible so I can compare gains and losses when I do future upgrades and changes. I want technical numbers AND "real world" numbers for data. Besides, I think it is safer to get the data from a dyno than from a track. Much easier takeoff on the drive train. I reserve the track as the "Final" test, because that is where things will break. Besides, mine is now no longer track-legal. Need to remount the battery and fix some other items that would not pass inspection.
I agree 100%.The track is the best dyno,you will get the numbers that matter the most.On a side note it is alot easier (less time consuming) to get baseline timing and jetting with the car sitting in one spot.And if the car developes a mysterious oil leak after a couple of floggings it's alot nicer to clean up on the dyno floor than the track surface.Don't ask how i know that!!
