Has anyone seen a 302 that split without running nitrous or a blower? All the blocks I have seen that split were using nitrous or a blower. I have never seen one that was naturally aspirated or turbo'd that split. Share your experience, what have you guys seen?
I have only personally seen power adders split blocks. Have not seen natural power break blocks like that. Seen a lot of blower motors do it
I agree - and was paraphrasing what he said. His quote, "You probably have 75 to 100 horses at the fly wheel." His numbers were similar to the 15-20% loss I'd always heard. I didn't roll out my abacus to see how exact it was, but it was close enough for me. Revisit other Q: What rods did you have in your 347 that grenaded?
Coast High/Probe CNC profiled I-beams w 3/8" ARP bolts. They were Chinese rods but they actually looked pretty nice. I'm not ready to say it was the rods fault, I may have done something stupid during the rebuild. After I pulled the engine back out I took off the oil pan and found pieces of rod caps and cylinder walls inside. Pulled the heads off and took out the roller cam and sat the block in a corner. Haven't even looked at it again. Don't know if I even want to know what happened. I've pretty much decided if I ever do another engine it will be 351-based.
There were a coulpe of products on Horse Power TV this morning that had a product that helps to not split a 302 block. But I cant find the product on the website. I thought nitrous was the only really bad power adder.
77, I would be interested in hearing about those products. I would love to hit the 500 HP mark and not have to worry about splitting...
yeah i seen that...they used pieces that connected each bank together in the lifter valley....there was 2-3 brackets one in fromt one in the middle and one in the rear i believe....
ok heres the idea , where the silver is , could be a like a billet alum. or steel or whatever you perfer....the black would be a bolt or stud the red cirlces and arrow shows were it can be drilled and tapped seam like it would work eddie
If i was building a high horsepower 302, id try and source a boss 302 block with 4 bolts mains. if I couldnt do that, I would do what I have done now. Im using a 1968 windsor 302, which essentially seems to be almost identicle to the boss 302 block in dimensions and block materials(Very High Nickel Content). I've been told the 68 block was essentially the same as the boss block but wasnt machined to have the 4 bolt mains, but unconfirmed by myself. The 68 blocks are very thick across the webs, and with the addition of a main stud girdle or even having the block machined to accept a 4 bolt main, it would take I believe in excess of 600 ponies. Of course, your rotating assembly would have to be top notch as well, and a roller cam conversion would also help.
has any body tried these guys..ive been looking at them for a future build http://www.dssracing.com/ even the level 20 blocks are right around the $1000 not dart but the make the sound super strong, even the entry level blocks are $625 for a 302 roller
There are guys on another forum I get on that use them. As with any builder you hear some good stuff and some bad stuff. I've heard majority good about DSS, but some other engine builders believe the DSS machined blocks are more hype than anything. They say you can do all the machining you want to a stock block, but you still have just a stock block that isn't any stronger. Their prices don't look bad, though, I think you get some kind of warranty. BTW, Ford has just released a new version of the Bos 302 block. Not super strong but at around $1100 it kinda fills in the area between using a stock block or a $2000 Dart block.
