I just googled those wires and the description from the mfgr is this.. "These ACCEL Extreme 9000 Ferro-Spiral heat-reflective wire sets use breakthrough technology to create an ultra high-temperature barrier that acts as a heat mirror, keeping your spark plug boots in great shape for years to come. These ACCEL Extreme 9000 Ferro-Spiral spark plug wire sets can withstand up to 1,000 degree F heat from an exhaust manifold only 1/2 in. away from the boot. Their 8mm size and the fact that they're spiral-wound wires mean that you'll get a reliable spark without the radio noise." which goes along with the no contact rule I pointed out earlier. With the ceramic boot option I'm guessing you could possibly get by with the direct contact.. but those boots are too small/short to really afford the wire much protection with such close proximity to the pipe and you'll likely shorten their life considerably. Then there's the whole issue of how do you get those rigid style boots over the plug without some added clearance? You'll need to use the shorty plugs for sure to even have a chance of them slipping over the plugs end from the few pics I saw posted earlier. You sure you don't have an extra 1/8 inch of header to tower clearance to enable using a thicker exhaust gasket like the remflex's?.. because that combined with shorty plugs might/should be enough to break the boots contact area and allow other heat resistant tricks or fancy boots to be used.
i have like a 1/8" on pass side which is fine anyways...and drivers side front tube is touching..and third back is like a 1\8"...i was searching the site to look at the angle of hedman headers coming off heads compared to hookers..who knows maybe a set of headers will fix it..either the hedman shorties or full length? couldnt find any of pics installed yet though and its late.
sheesh.. that is tight. time to take out the hammer maybe? what if you lifted the motor slightly? that would give a tiny bit more clearance too(as you gain clearance due to the shock towers taper nearer the tops) and should be easy enough to do with flat washers between the mounts and block? might need 1/2 inch longer bolts to compensate for the washers is all. Personally speaking.. I would be looking for a quicker fix like some of these temporary cheats thrown your way so far.. until I had sufficient time and resources to do it right with a header swap and/or tower notching. Maybe a bit of everything combined for cumulative gains without affecting any one component too much? mark headers for interference area's remove headers and slightly clearance with a hammer/flat piece of steel shim motor mounts to lift the engine up about a 1/4 inch run the thicker remflex carbon gaskets run the shorty plugs use the fancy boot insulators or just use simpler heat sleeves Bout all I got right now but I wish you the best of luck with it.
I have seen these used before.. But your clearance seems really close.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Taylor-2570...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d342ff800&vxp=mtr
I think it's a bit too close for those blu... And my towers are notched quite a lot.. I'm thinking the hammer is the next step as I want to Finnish this and get to the track for next months date.. Then more dates after that.. What would be more restricting, stock manifolds or a few hammer digs on #5,6 and 7
I think anything would be better than the stock manifolds.............get out the "ballpeen" and be easy................you don't want to increase the heat buy closing off the exhaust gases too much.......... You really need a 1/4" to 1/2" of clearance..............not sure you can get that much but try........................just a question..........how much clearance to you have between the tubes and the tower?
I'll be home from the gym real soon and I'll look and let you know so it's more accurate.. Right now the wires sit right on the header so I hope I can get a 1/4" when the wire is on.. Then with the 1/4" space is it alright if my sleeve takes up that room? Or do they transfer heat right to the wire
Ngk ridiums On the pass side I have lots of clearance except #2 is touching lower tower #5 is touching lower tower...and #7 is like a 1/16 away from my steering box I also just stopped at the parts store and he said they may take the hookers back and let me upgrade to hedmans as I do buy a lot of stuff I go back in a half hour to talk to the bossman there. Do hedmans come out straighter without an instant curve back towards the plug? I don't mind if there shortys or full, I dont care as long as they fit.
If the sleeve hits the header sooner or later it will become toast........and yes, it does transfer the heat to and will toast the wire also. I would still get the short plugs..............this could certainly help and may lessen the amount you need to pound on the header...............Remember that the header can reach temperatures of 400/700 degrees and I doubt any wire (maybe with the exception of ViTek) can withstand that kind of direct heat.
Ok so I'll be looking to order those shorty plugstomorrow. I am going to try a set of Hedmans.. They will be here tomorrow and there taking mine back, used, dented and all. So now I have to fight them out alone because everyone works today If the hedmans and shortys don't solve the issue maybe I should just keep this motor for a t bucket project I want to do and save up for no shock towers wih the kit.. I'm so frustrated.
Eric, I know exactly what you are going through. This is why I started building my own headers along time ago..............because no matter who's I bought they would never fit without a ton of hassle..............and at times I felt like I should just sell the project......................but that is just part of hot rodding..............it's kind of like the old saying "If you want something done right then do it yourself"...................was true 40+ years ago and still holds true today. Don't give up......................you can make it work....................
If you can't get the Headman to fit good you may want to look at these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261027512275?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 I had been looking at these for sometime now on theBay and they don't look too bad................at least they are slip fit so you might be able to get them on without to huge a hassle................maybe. I have asked the guy a bunch of questions about them so hopefully he will get back to me. If you look at these and mine side by side they do look similar......but I've got completely different heads than you do............and they were only $210 You may be able to tell just by looking at them if they are different from what you have or the Headmans.....................
Eric; try FlowTech headers if you get stumped. I use them, and everything fits well, with no problems with the plug wires. They are 1 5/8" primaries, 2 1/2" collectors, and are pretty inexpensive. I've had mine for 12yrs, so they are durable, and don't leak. Give them a try and see. BTW, I use 45degree boots, and don't burn them up. Good luck!
