I have had cooper on PINKY for the last 6 years....ain't got any vibrations though *$hit...I just jinxed myself for sure
Dan, how accurate does that electric one work... I am not looking for rocket science here, just approximate values, within 2-5 psi of accurate. If it falls below 10psi, I will pull over and cut the engine anyway. With wire, it either works, or it doesnt. No leaks, drips, cracks, etc. Plus, smaller amounts of "stuff" coming through my firewall.
No idea on accuraccy ... it reads 0 when engine is off ... and moves between 45 and 70 depending on engine speed and hot or cold ... I would say it's definitely working ... the electric temp guage is right on for sure ... I have a 180 degree thermostat installed and it opens right when my gauge hits 180 ...
Personally, I don't trust electric senders. Just me, I know they often do work. However, they don't work a lot more often than mechanical gauges don't work. Here is what I have learned from some bad experiences: Copper is okay. Steel or braided is better. Plastic SUX! FWIW: NEVER USE AN AMP GAUGE. The reason I say that is that the worst experience I ever had with gauges involved both an amp gauge and a plastic oil hose. The amp gauge shorted, common with an amp gauge, and the extreme spark generated burned through the plastic oil gauge line right next door to it. The oil then sprayed all over the inside of my car while traveling in traffic. The spark turned to fire which spread through my gauges, dash, wiring, and some of the oil burned. So that left me trying to get off a crowded 6 lane road in Memphis with my dash on fire and oil soaking my interior. NO MORE AMP GAUGES NO MORE PLASTIC LINE I have had other plastic lines break and other amp gauges burn, but this incident was the worst. Some say copper is bad, but I have never had it break...
tubing copper works fine. Just have to make sure you havea gommet where it goes thru the firewall so it doesn't rub a hole in the tubing. Proplr don't like it because it's hard to bend.
Like these? http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_10001_10002_752285_-1 I have seen them in some of the newer cars, and I like them. But for this car, I really want to fabricate a more stock looking dash with all the gauges in the instrument panel in front of me, and not on the pillar, hoseclamped to the steering column, or stuck in the radio hole (like mine are now, on the column and in the hole). Very old pic of mine.
yup.. nylon tube is illegal to use on all drag strips... if they see it, they will tell you to leave also need 12" of rubber fuel lilne MAXIMUM on any car on the track
I originally installed an Autometer electric gauge, after 3 sending units failed I went to a mechanical gauge with copper tubing, it's been working great with no problems and no leaks, just make sure you use thread sealer on the fittings.
I have used copper in the past without any problems, but I can see where if it was unsupported it might vibrate and break. A few simple rubber lined adel clamps to the shock towers should insulate it enough, but make sure you leave a coil near the engine to give it a little flex when the engine moves so it won't break there...
Ya know, back in the day... I remember when mechanical oil pressure gauges came with a roll of copper tube! Plastic tube is a relatively new thing.
I have always run copper. The plastic hardens with age and will break. Had that happen twice. Braided line would be great, but ya gotta have a larger hole in the firewall to run it through and the right length. Why would an electric guage be a bad idea? Mechanical guages have not be used on new cars in decades.