Lets see how many machinists cringe..... http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=17722180&PMT4NO=49014615 run your drill as fast as possible I usually use these at is 1200RPM whenever possible, you can get them at you local machine/Industrial supply company call it a #4 center drill. That and they are made for starting drilled holes in all types of material including uneven and rough surfaces so they have a high shock factor but they can still be broken oh yeah works great for pop rivets too OK let the rebuttles begin...
Been my experience that you drill fast on hardened steel and slow on soft steel.I know it sounds counter intuitive.My dad is a trained machineist and he said this also.It workes for me unless the bit is cheap.buy good hardened steel bits. That titanium coated stuff is fine for wood/thin metal.... $.02
It all depends on the diameter of the drill and the material being cut hence the equation used to figure it out is cutting speed of the material X 3.82 / diameter of the drill = RPM of the drill when you calculate the actual diameter of the drill in the type of steel used in the automotive industry you will find the rpm's are higher than most people have capacity for.(yes I am a tool and die maker....er uh machinist or the guy who trains the machinists for most of you) this is a good book for most people to have in their shop/workshop http://new.industrialpress.com/node/976 and yes it is 152 bucks for a book but it is an endless supply of information on everything from machining to welding to gear ratio's...
Figured it out. I ended up taking the battery and the antifreeze reservoir bottle out and removing the two bolts holding the turn signal "Cradles" to the frame. Right now the grill is sitting behind me waiting to be transferred to the new Mav. Thanks for all the help, everyone. If I knew where my camera was I'd take pictures to better illustrate what I did.
