Like I said, this is like arguing with an eight year old. You cannot fathom anyone elses ideas nor can you acknowledge the fact that your "calculations" (cfm requirements) are flawed and have little to do with what an engine actually does in real world environments. If they were true, then why should he even bother with a 4 bbl carb ? He'd be better off just leaving everything stock using your advice. Unless he invested in heads and a bullet proof bottomend (where he could rev it to the moon to take advantage of the heads) everything else is a waste using your thinking. And stop with the "ego" comments, you could stand taking your advice here before your head explodes. There's no need for crap like that, you just got called on yours back when you assumed things about my 331 that weren't true and got called on it.
Car is running good. Feeling a weird almost miss when cruising. Don't think its a miss it just feels like it at cruise. When I accelerate its smooth but when I hold 2k rpm or so at cruise it is almost choppy. Any ideas?
I saw small vac leak or clogged air bleeds which seem to be almost always the case with holleys according to what I read. Will update when its not raining.
Sounds like lean miss due to all that extra timing you added. Get yourself a vac gauge for the cockpit and see if it corroborates the same choppiness. And/or.. you don;t have the proper amount of transition slot uncovered for that rpm level/throttle angle. With that much timing at light cruise.. you must barely have the throttle cracked to crusie at 2,000 rpm now?
yeah barely on the throttle to cruise at 2k. I have a boost / vac guage I can throw in for a few test runs. If it is a lean miss whats the better answer? less timing or more fuel? Where and how do I add the fuel to get rid of the lean miss. Thanks
Could be a balance of both. You could first start out by tightening up the vac pots diaphragm which will give less "pull" on the arm and less supplemental assist(less vac assisted timing). Then.. assuming you have the transition slot uncovered a fair enough amount for that rpm/throttle angle.. and I would imagine you would with anything more than about 1/16" of pedal travel.. you'll need to start digging into the low speed bleed sizes to richen things up a bit more to get rid of the lean miss. Easiest trick is to find yourself some very fine multi-stranded wires(which you'll need to separate the thinner individual strands from) to slip down the idle air bleeds(the outside holes) to displace some of the current holes orifice size. That will enrich the idle mixture by allowing less air down the bleeds to up the idle fuel mixture ratio. Just be sure to keep them long enough to wrap around the vent tubes several times and still reach both down into bleeds a slight amount. You can also use a bread tie wrapped around the vent tubes to pin them in place and make sure they don;t get sucked into the carb if they come loose. I usually just cut a wire about 5" long and wrap it around the vent tube several times before feeding the ends down the bleed holes. Never lost one yet with that method.. but it's tough to be too safe, if you know what I mean. EDIT: forgot to mention that once.. if.. you see trends towards lessening the lean-out condition by shrinking the idle air bleed size.. JB weld them shut(after a thorough roughening and solvent cleaning of course) and use a pin vice with indexed bits to sneak up on the required smaller size orifice. Or.. do it like the pro's by tapping and threading for removable bleeds that can be swapped around without as much hassle. Costs more. but gives you far more precise tuning capability. You can also buy smaller than required size brass bleeds and just slowly enlarge them to what you need too.
Where are these bleeds at? Sorry never had to mess with it much. I will try and tighten up the pot since I havent touched it yet.
The diaphragm inside the vacuum pod on the distributor could be ruptured. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the distributor, remove the dist. cap, then while sucking on the hose, watch the breaker plate inside the distributor to see that it's moving as you suck on the hose. If the diaphragm is ruptured, you can buy the vacuum pod by itself at the local parts house and change it, just be careful removing the screws on the pod, they tend to strip out the housing after being there for long periods of time. If they do, then you can drill the holes out slightly and use a through-bolt (like a #10 machine screw) and nut to replace it with.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0607_engine_tuning_guide/photo_02.html If you also read the article.. it goes over the details of idle mixture tuning. If you didn't adjust the pots spring tension yet as we had discussed before?.. then that's the likely culprit right there. Adding heavier initial and leaving that anywhere near stock will likely give you a lean miss from so much advance as the mechanical starts to come into the picture. You would want to watch the vac gauge to see if taking vac advance timing away helps or hurts. If it hurts the vacuum at the 2,000 rpm level?.. I would probably add a bit more initial and still take some vac assisted timing out anyways. 8-10 degrees of vac assist should be more than enough and from there you start enriching the idle mixture as discussed above. Max vacuum at all part throttle cruise rpm's is what you should be after. Juggling back and forth for best results is usually required. Even then.. compromises are typically the end result.
Ok so I jist went to tske the car to the exhaust shop and couldnt even make it there. Its a fair bit cooler this morning. Car would almost stall from cutting out anywhere in the throttle after a tiny amount or full out wot. Have no idea what it could be. Nothing has changed since the last time I drove it except weather. Miss is still there at cruise except way more noticeable now. Someone help please. Any throttle input and it starts bicking and cutting out.
By god groberts your a genuis. I was in a rush to drop the car off for the new exhaust so I cranked the vac pot all the way ccw and bam running smooth.
