Wheelhopopotamous.....t5 swap suspensions q's etc...

No the car is nowhere near nice enough to be a stock style car, has to make up for it elsewhere.

I found the bracketry you guys have been using to mount the clutch pedal. I have alot of things in the way in that location I will need to remove. E-brake, cowl vent, and lower package tray thingy.


I LOVE your interior that looks so raw and bad@SS maybe someday I can get mine like that!



I was sent drawings of a basic bracket for the cnc assembly I will probably order the cnc clutch kit today.

I will probably remote mount the resovoir but am unsure of where I should mount it yet. I guess I can figure that out.


Did you find the firewall brace necessary?

 

You do need to remove the ebrake. The rest of the stuff will go back in place. Im going to use a ebrake handle on the trans tunnel when I get to that project.

I didnt use a brace to the firewall from the pedal bracket. But I wll probably add one in the future to stiffen it up a bit. I mounted my remote reservoir on the back side of the drivers shock tower. Have to make sure it is higher then the master cylnider.

You will also need to cut down the brake pedal. I cut it to fit a small Ford brake pedal pad I got from Oreilly in the Help section.

 

Ordered the pedal and master.....Hope it will be getting here in a couple days, anyone have exp with poly performance?

I ordered it with the built in res to simplify the setup, I have a syringe and tube that can easily add fluid to the res.

Called around today for prices on a T5 without a core...Cheapest rebuilt one locally was 1500$...yea right. I think I want the T5-Z from modern driveline with the .58 overdrive upgrade....Might be the way to go with the 4.11's.

 

I used Poly Performance and they were great. the package price on all the stuff was a good deal. Dont know where you are at but a few days would be a stretch to get it delivered from california unless you paid for fast shipping.

 

you can get a new z spec t5 from summit for that price also. so definitely forget paying for a rebuilt one for that price.

on mashoris t5 i forget what the 5th gear ratio was but its a big rpm drop from 4th to 5th. we have 4.10s in his diff and in 5th at 70mph hes only around 2200 rpm. going through gears 1-4 are a blast.

 

WOW that is perfect 2200rpm in 5th would be ideal, I am hoping for under 2600rpm.

I have 25.7" tires.

Yea the rebuild price is insane, they must have platinum synchro's.

Side not a wrecking yard in san leandro has a T5 from a V8 for 500$ with a 60 day warranty...

I could get it tomorrow (not that I am in a hurry) but that is a fast cheap option.

 

It stiffens it up a lot.....Without it you'll see the master moving quite a bit when you push in the clutch

 

I am going to put some gussets to the plate to help stiffen it, not sure if I will be bracing to the firewall initially. We will see. I ordered it yesterday probably wont see the pedal for awhile (they are based in Souther cali, so maybe soon?)

 

Got the pedal and master but it was shipped with the tall square master cyl. I am unsure on how it will fit...I have my gauges in the tray bellow the dash so I would like to find a way to keep them there.

 

Is this necessary if I'm simply switching out the 3 speed for a T5? In other words, did the factory support the firewall?

 

You'll still have to stiffin up the firewall as the factory did not use a clutch master cylinder. Everything was mechanical back then.

 

I think I will be following suit in some respects, mainly removing the under dash piece, and a few other misc items. Can I get more pictures of your clutch pedal mounting by chance?

 

Bryants thread had the best info and pics when i did mine...

http://www.maverick.to/mmb/showthread.php?t=66401

 

T-5 swap can be a headache.. I put a t5 in my 70. It's was a factory 3 speed so I modified the pedal to run a cable set up

 

I have the cnc pedal but actually have been really tied up with work lately.

I retorqued alot of the bolts in the engine bay, retensioned the alternator and added a lock washer on some of the bolts so they do not get loose again.

Also got a set of cheapo lakewood traction bars to help stop the wheel hop for now.

Also got a set of adjustable spring shackles. I will use these in the interim to raise the rear of the maverick so it can be driven.

With 2 people in the car it hits when you floor it or if you let it shift hard. I think the pair may get me through for awhile (a month or so) while I focus on getting the T5 swap going full bore. I also resewed my seats back together as they were seperated on the sides.

We shall see.